Asparagus, Symbol of Spring
“The flowers that bloom in the spring, Tra la...”, promises the song by Gilbert and Sullivan from “Mikado, to bring “summer of roses and wine”. The fresh green of asparagus is an equally good harbinger of spring and the coming summer for the kitchen.
Asparagus is a perennial flowering plant, and it takes a couple of years to establish a productive asparagus bed to yield these tender young shoots. As a first spring vegetable it was appreciated by the Egyptians, considered a medicinal herb by Galen, a Greek physician in the Roman empire, and carefully cultivated in French monasteries. Modern analysis tells us it is rich in vitamins, fiber and low in calories, only 3 calories per spear.
That calorie advantage is however quickly lost with Hollandaise, the favorite sauce for asparagus. My favorite quick Hollandaise recipe comes from Craig Clairborne’s “The New York Times Cookbook”.
‘Quick Hollandaise’
Blend 3 large egg yolks, 2 tblsp. fresh lemon juice, ¼ tsp. salt and a dash of cayenne in a blender. Heat ½ cup butter without browning. Turn the mixer motor on slow and slowly add the hot butter in a stream. Blend for 15 seconds to a thickened sauce. Serve with asparagus or eggs on an English muffin for breakfast.
Creamy asparagus soup
The pale green color is perfect to start any meal or serve this soup as a light luncheon main course. Harvested asparagus comes with a tough portion at the bottom of the stalk, which easily snaps off for removal as you bend the stalk. Snap the tough ends from 1 lb. asparagus and wash the stalks in cold water. Set aside 1-inch pieces from the top of 6 spears and cut the rest in 3–4-inch lengths.
1) Melt 2 tblsp. butter in a large pot and sauté 1 large, chopped onion for 5 minutes. Stir in 5-6 cups chicken broth, 2 medium potatoes cut in pieces, the cut-up asparagus, a light dash of cayenne and ¼ cup chopped parsley. Cook for 20 minutes and set aside to cool.
2) When cooled puree in a blender with 1 tsp. lemon juice. Stir in ½ cup heavy cream and reheat. If you are making this soup on a warm day, you can substitute 1 cup yoghurt for the cream and serve the soup cold. Garnish each bowl with a reserved small asparagus spear piece and chopped dill.
Prosciutto wrapped asparagus
This asparagus dish works best with medium to fat asparagus spears. Trim and wash ½ lb. of asparagus and boil in salted water for 3 minutes and quickly plunge the spears in ice water. When cool, remove from water, wrap each spear with a small piece of prosciutto around the middle and arrange on a platter with spears pointing in the same direction.
The Prosciutto wrapped asparagus makes a colorful side dish with any meat serving. The following recipe is for chicken, but it would work equally well with steak, veal, lamb or ham.
Roasted ginger-chicken legs
In a bowl combine:2/3 cup soy sauce, ½ cup brown sugar, 2 tblsp. cornstarch, 4 tblsp. white vinegar, 2 large, chopped garlic cloves, 2-inch piece of fresh ginger peeled and grated or finely chopped. Marinate 8 chicken drumsticks in a shallow dish or plastic bag in the marinade for 6-8 hours.
Set the oven rack in upper ¾ of the oven and preheat to 375 degrees. Remove chicken from marinade and spread on a rimmed pan without the pieces touching. Roast for 40-45 minutes, turning the chicken once. In another pan roast 3-4 large potatoes cut in pieces and tossed in olive oil, balsamic vinegar, minced garlic and sprinkled with salt. Serve chicken, potatoes and the prosciutto wrapped asparagus for a colorful and delicious spring dinner.
“In the merry, merry month of May” goes the old song by Stephen Foster. Like Gilbert and Sullivan, we are reminded the sights, sounds and tastes of spring signal the earth awakening for another year to anticipate and savor.
(I. Winicov Harrington lives in coastal Maine and is the author of “How to Eat Healthy and Well for Less than $5.00 a Day: the Smart-Frugal Food Plan”; website: www.winicov-harrington.com)
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