Monday, May 7, 2018

THE HUMBLE CABBAGE





The Humble Cabbage

          Cooks, dietitians and nutritionists have deluged us in recent years with the praises of kale, while relatively ignoring its cousin in the Cruciferous vegetable family, the humble cabbage. Cabbage has long been maligned in literary descriptions of Northern culture diets and cramped city conditions as being unpleasantly odiferous. Not so, it only becomes odiferous by releasing its sulfurous smell when overcooked, but tastes delicious raw, astutely cooked, steamed or fermented.
          Cabbage with thick leaves and resistance to cold first appeared in Northern Europe about 3000 years ago, though in Northern China a more leafy version was on the local menus as early as 4000 years ago. The English word cabbage comes from old-French “caboche”, or head. Cold resistance as well as good keeping qualities for winters, when vegetables were scarce, have kept cabbage an essential crop for thousands of years.
          Cabbage ranges in color from pale green to purple and in texture from loose tender leaves of Napa cabbage to the tightly packed heads more commonly encountered everyday. It boasts only 20 calories per ½ cup cooked cabbage, but is chock full of fiber, nutrients, vitamins such as K and E, folate and a variety of antioxidants. While some of these are more readily accessible in cooked cabbage as in the case of carrots, raw cabbage is digested nearly three times as fast as cooked cabbage.
          Cabbage, carrot and radish salad with sour cream is one of my all year favorites, but in summer oil and vinegar-based dressings are safer when exposed to warmer temperatures. Here is a modified recipe of a cabbage salad from Irene Heinemier, served many years ago at many Good Shepherd Lutheran church functions in Nevada. The recipe can be easily doubled for a crowd.
Oriental Cabbage Salad
Toast ½ cup sliced almonds with 1 ½  tblsp. sesame seeds for 8-10 minutes in a 350 degree oven until lightly browned. Thinly shred 5-6 cups Napa or green cabbage in a large bowl. Toss with 3 thinly sliced scallions with green tops, 1 package broken Top Ramen noodles (Oriental flavor) and the toasted almonds and sesame seeds. Dressing: ½ cup olive oil, 3 tblsp. white vinegar, 2 tblsp. sugar, ½ tsp. salt, ½ tsp. pepper and the packet of Oriental flavoring from the noodles. Toss cabbage mix with dressing just before serving to preserve the crunchy texture of some of the ingredients.
A recent supper at our house, that featured barbecued pork, led me to come up with this side dish or warm cabbage salad with slightly tangy overtones.
          Warm Cabbage Salad with Caraway Seeds
Sautè ½ large chopped onion in 2 tblsp. olive oil in a large pan for 3 minutes. Stir in 4 cups coarsely chopped green cabbage, 2 chopped garlic cloves and ¾ tsp. caraway seeds and continue to fry with frequent stirring on medium high heat for 10 minutes. Stir in ¼ cup water and 2 tblsp. white vinegar and continue cooking for another 8 minutes. Stir in 2-3 tblsp. liquid from a jar of kimchi and cook for an additional 4 minutes. Serve warm.
Spring brings me to one of my easy favorite tomato soups, which has the added benefits of minimal preparation, low calories and a delicious use for leftover rice.
          Tomato, Cabbage and Rice Soup
Bring to boil 3 cups of chicken or vegetable broth in a 3 quart pot. Add 2 cups coarsely shredded green cabbage and cook for 15 minutes. Stir in 2 cups tomato juice, regular or spicy according to taste, and cook over low heat for 5 minutes after the soup reaches boiling. Stir in 1 cup cooked rice, cook until heated through and serve.
Move over kale and broccoli. The humble cabbage can be proud of its own nutritional as well a culinary right. 

(I. Winicov Harrington lives in coastal Maine and is the author of “How to Eat Healthy and Well for Less than $5.00 a Day: the Smart-Frugal Food Plan”; website: www.winicov-harrington.com)