Holiday Heritage Treats

There is something about the Holiday Season that brings back food memories from our childhood.  We fondly recall family feasts in the past with memories of those specialties brought out each year to link us to our heritage.  There would be the inevitable reminder that:” Grama Sofia or great aunt Hortense always made the best – (you fill in the blank) and always used the recipe her mother brought over from the ‘old country’.” In our house it would not be Christmas if I did not bake my mother’s favorite butter cookies, shaped as  stars, bells, Santa or even camels. But my sons will always remember that the best ones were the hearts, because they were the biggest.

Those old recipes keep us linked to celebrations long ago and in the current age of multiculturalism avail us an incredible array of dishes.  While many are associated with cookies or deserts, a treat at a friend’s house could be latkes for Hanukkah, those crisp fried shredded potato cakes, barely held together with a bit of flour and egg and topped with smoked salmon and a dab of sour cream. Another treat with a French heritage would be Bûche de Noël or Christmas log, the ultimately decorated jelly roll, made to look like a log with chocolate icing, sprouting meringue mushrooms.

Enthusiastic bakers, like my sister in law Joyce, spend the season baking goodies of different ethnic origins for their friends with those origins. Her awesome list last year included: Italian Panetone, Scandinavian Julekage, Serbian Kolach, Greek Christopsomo, Hungarian Makos es Dios Kalacs, English fruitcake and plum pudding in addition to German Anisekuchean and Lebkuchen. Since many of these are made with yeast dough that requires kneading in addition to allowing the dough to rise twice, this truly represents a labor of love for friends and family.

At our house another ethnic holiday treat is Latvian Pīrāgi. These are small crescent form rolls filled with a bacon/onion/caraway mixture. I can’t claim it to be my mother’s recipe, because it has undergone several revisions in my lifetime. However, I cherish those revisions since they represent special memories of people who suggested them.  So, each time I make the dough and stir in sour cream and ground cardamom, I remember the time I learned to make Pīrāgi from my friend’s mother. The Latvian custom requires that you always find some insufficiency in your Pīrāgi as you offer them to others. Valija claimed that sour cream was her secret for Pīrāgi that never needed an apology because they were perfect.  My friend’s father always ground the cardamom fresh when she baked and now as I add these to my dough, I remember them both, though they are long gone.

                        Latvian Pīrāgi 

For the yeast dough melt ½ cup butter without browning, stir in 1 cup milk, 3 Tbls. sugar, 1 tsp. salt, ½ tsp. ground cardamom. The mixture should be lukewarm and not hot.  Dissolve 2 packages yeast in ¼  cup water and wait until it starts to froth. Beat 2 eggs lightly and combine with the milk mixture and yeast in a large bowl. Beat in 2 cups all purpose flour, then stir in  2 Tblsp. sour cream and  2 ½  +  additional cups of flour. Knead the mixture until a sticky dough is formed. Cover and set in a warm place to rise for about an hour.  When the dough has doubled in size, punch it down, cover and let it rise the second time.

Meanwhile prepare the filling. Chop 2/3 lb thick lean bacon in ½ inch pieces. Cut 6 oz. Canadian bacon in small pieces. Chop 1 large onion in small, but not fine pieces. Fry the bacon pieces with stirring for a couple of minutes, then add the chopped onion and continue cooking on medium heat until the onion is translucent and much of the fat is rendered from the bacon.  Stir in the Canadian bacon and cook for an additional 3 minutes. Remove all with a slotted spoon to a bowl, stir in ½  tsp. sugar, 1 tsp. caraway seed, ½ tsp. pepper. Allow filling to cool before assembling Pīrāgi.

Remove handfuls of dough on a floured board and with floured hands fashion smaller pieces in flat rounds about 2-3 inches. Place a teaspoon of the filling in the center and fold the dough over making a pillow and sealing the edges with a glass by cutting off the extra dough. Vain cooks make these small, impatient cooks make them larger. Place each dough pillow on a greased cookie sheet, cover lightly with a dishtowel and allow the dough to raise for about 20 minutes. Brush with an egg wash (slightly beaten egg with 1 Tblsp. water) and bake at 420 degrees for 8 minutes until lightly browned.

You will find that these are addictive and can be eaten at breakfast, lunch, dinner or anytime in between as my granddaughters have shown each time I make them.  

(I. Winicov Harrington lives in Waldoboro and is the author of “How to Eat Healthy and Well for Less than $5.00 a Day: the Smart-Frugal Food Plan”; website: www.winicov-harrington.com)

Ultimate Thanksgiving Leftovers

            The two words “Thanksgiving” and “leftovers” are bound to raise opposite visions. “Thanksgiving” instantly calls up the gloriously groaning dining table of this feast.  Unfortunately we are apt to think of  disparate packets of the same meal, but not nearly as appetizing, reheated in the microwave the following day for the less favored second word  -  “leftovers”.  With imagination and very little work the second word can become as enticing as the first. In fact, just consider the fact that most of the work has already been done for the original feast and now you have a refrigerator full of partially prepared ingredients for several meals to come.

            Every time I watch the wild turkeys in their daily procession along the meadow from my window at this time of the year and plan our Thanksgiving feast featuring one of their domesticated relatives,  I mentally note the meal possibilities for the days after the big event. Variations for turkey sandwiches alone can be exciting.

                                    Turkey sandwich bonanza

            Turkey on toast with delicious gravy to which you have added some mushrooms can certainly be classified as comfort food, but other alternatives abound.  A baguette can be the base for several versions of tasty combinations of leftover items from the previous meal. One could be layers of goat cheese or even a flavorful cream cheese dip, thinly sliced turkey breast topped with avocado and a small dab of cranberry sauce. Any restaurant would give it a fancy name and so can you.

One of my favorites is a take-off on a Philadelphia cheese steak. Lightly toast an Italian roll.  Thinly slice turkey white or dark meat, top with sautéed onions, green peppers and/or mushrooms. Cover with a slice of provolone and broil until the cheese is melted. If you are looking for a more distinctive Italian flavor, sprinkle with some oregano and spread a spoonful or so of spaghetti sauce on the sandwich before covering with the cheese.

                        Mashed potatoes and stuffing?

Unlike turkey, leftover mashed potatoes can be less appetizing unless tweaked by some minor additions.  Potato cakes turn out to be one of my husband’s favorite childhood food remembrances.  Fortunately the main required ingredient is mashed potatoes. In a bowl mix together 1 cup mashed potatoes, 1 beaten egg, ½ tsp. onion powder and pepper to taste.  Melt 1 Tblsp. butter and ½ Tblsp. olive oil in a pan over medium heat.  Drop large spoonfuls of the potato mixture in the pan and flatten with a spatula. Brown on both sides and serve hot as a side dish.  I sometimes liven these up with a chopped jalapeño pepper and/or cheese.  Either way these will not remind you of yesterday’s dinner.

Much as some of us like stuffing in its various forms, it is a challenge to disguise it in a new format. However, if you are familiar with a variety of delicious breakfast bakes, all designed to feed large families or visiting houseguests, you realize that one of the main ingredients there is a large amount of bread cubes. Aha! Here is your main ingredient all ready to go, just requiring separation in smaller pieces. It does not matter whether you have regular stuffing or cornbread stuffing, or even stuffing with sausage, they all will work and already contain a lot of flavorful spices. Spread 2-3 cups of stuffing in a lightly buttered baking dish, sprinkle with shredded 1/3 cup Parmesan and 1 cup sharp cheddar cheese. Spread on top some thinly sliced tomato and scatter a few pitted black olive slices (optional).  Beat 4 large eggs with a cup of milk, salt and pepper to taste. Pour over the contents of the dish, pressing all down with a spatula. Sprinkle with additional cheese if desired and bake in a 350 degree oven for 30 minutes.

                        And finally soup

When we finally get down to the bones, they and any scraps of meat and skin will make a wonderful soup. Place everything in a 4-6 quart pot, add two stalks of celery with leaves, a bay leaf, 1 tsp. thyme, unpeeled (for color) onion cut in half with root stem removed, 2-3 sprigs of parsley, salt and pepper to taste. Cover all with cold water, bring to boil and simmer for 2 hours. Add 2 peeled carrots and parsnip (optional) and continue to simmer for an additional hour. When cool, remove carrots and parsnip and slice for the soup. Strain the soup through the sieve and discard any solids. Adjust seasoning of the broth. The soup is ready to be served with addition of some cooked rice or small pasta or peas. If you have leftover corn or green beans from Thanksgiving, these too could be added to enrich the soup with vegetables.

Thanksgiving allows us to focus on reasons for being thankful.  It gives us a wonderful gathering experience with friends and family and in addition can be a source of economical no fuss meals for days to come. One more reason to be thankful!

(I. Winicov Harrington lives in Waldoboro and is the author of “How to Eat Healthy and Well for Less than $5.00 a Day: the Smart-Frugal Food Plan”; website: www.winicov-harrington.com)

Winter Potluck Blues

            The oaks and even some of the maples in our yard seem reluctant to shed their leaves this fall, despite our Halloween Trickster snowstorm.  They seem to hang on to autumn’s mild days that we are enjoying this year. But the calendar shows the approaching Holiday Season and with it the coming gatherings of community organizations with their various festivities. Each invitation arrives with the polite note: “Please bring a potluck dish”.  A great way to feed a large number of people with everyone preparing just one thing!  Except, with that many interesting looking dishes in front of you, it is hard to avoid overloading your plate. There goes ‘the diet”, we groan and take another bite.

            My personal attack of blues always comes several days before the event, when faced with the necessity to make something, I rummage in my mind about what to make?  Oriental chicken wings?  Cabbage rolls?  Sauerkraut with sausage?  Lasagna?  Baked rice pilaf? Tamale pie? Oven roasted sweet potatoes and squash with ham?  Stuffed grape leaves?  My rendition of these was something different when I first moved here many years ago, but by now I am looking for something new.  Some women don’t like to wear a dress several years old, just in case someone else remembers them wearing it,  Instead, I just get bored cooking the same old recipes.  Unfortunately it still needs to be portable, fit in my 9x13 inch glass casserole, keep for a time before being served and should provide a spoonful or two for 15 to 20 people. Besides, it needs to be solid food.

            Sometimes the answer is to invent something new. With luck, you have a captive audience to taste test your invention. Preferably without requesting a companion helping of Tums for desert.  I will have to confess on taste testing some of my improvisations on my friends at the Dutch Neck Community Club’s monthly potlucks, which always involve serious eating before the monthly meeting.

            Recently I was having one such blues attack, when it occurred to me that the tasty grilled  chicken thighs of the summer could be transformed into a pan and oven prepared winter dish.  It would retain some spice and zest and put on a bed of small pasta, could maintain eye appeal and feed a crowd.

                                    Zesty chicken thighs on pasta

            Trim 8 boneless, skinless chicken thighs of any extraneous fat nd cut in thirds.  In a mini-processor pulse ½ inch piece of fresh peeled ginger cut in small cubes with 4 chopped garlic cloves until quite fine. Add 1/3 cup fresh lemon juice, 1 ½ tsp. sweet paprika, ½ tsp. smoked paprika and blend until smooth. Transfer to a large bowl and stir in 2 Tblsp. olive oil, 2 Tblsp. chopped Italian parsley and 1 Tblsp. dried oregano.  Add the chicken, toss well, cover and refrigerate for 2-3 hr.

            Remove the chicken from the marinade, pat dry and season with salt and pepper. In a large pan heat 2 Tblsp. olive oil with 1 Tblsp. butter and quickly brown the chicken on both sides about 3-4 minutes per side. Transfer the chicken to an ovenproof dish and place in a preheated oven at 325 degrees for 15-20 minutes.

            In the pan in which you browned the chicken, sauté ½ chopped onion for 5 minutes. Stir in 14 oz can diced tomatoes with juice, 2 Tblsp, sundried tomato paste, 1 ½ tsp marjoram, 2 Tblsp. chopped dill (optional), a spoonful of the solids from the marinade, 2 Tblsp. chopped parsley, 1 tsp. sugar and salt and pepper to taste. Bring to a boil and cook until most of the liquid is reduced.

            In the meantime, cook small bow or wagon wheel shaped pasta according to package directions. Drain and layer in a 9x13 baking dish. Distribute the chicken pieces on top of the pasta and spoon the tomato sauce on top, leaving some of the chicken exposed. Cover and keep warm until served

            If more sauce is desired,  double the amount of diced tomatoes for the sauce and adjust seasonings. This dish could also be made with chicken breast, taking care not to overcook the chicken.

(I. Winicov Harrington lives in Waldoboro and is the author of “How to Eat Healthy and Well for Less than $5.00 a Day: the Smart-Frugal Food Plan”; website: www.winicov-harrington.com)

Cooking for One.

            One of the most common questions I get when giving talks about healthy eating on a budget and cooking is: “How can I manage when I live alone and eat most of my meals by myself?” This question is usually followed by comments about time, convenience and portion size in most recipes, plus the inevitable conclusion that no one wants to eat the same leftovers every day for a week. Such challenges are faced even by a couple in a household, when appetites are modified by age and decreasing levels of activity. I still miss the days when I had two teenage sons living at home and any leftovers in the refrigerator, saved as a component for another meal, required strict labeling in order not to disappear.

            The food industry certainly is poised to accommodate us, but in the process we lose the natural life connections to the food that we eat and our control on ingredients in the meal on our plate. So, living alone for a short or long time we drift into the habit of opening a can of soup, popping a frozen dinner in the microwave, or subsisting on snack foods and yoghurt until an occasion leads to a meal out in a restaurant.  Hunger will determine that we eat something, but the pleasure and relaxation of a meal becomes lost in our busy daily lives.

            It need not be so.  Preparing a meal is a pleasurable and caring activity and can be made so even for one, especially on an evening with no pressing commitments. In the company of a favorite radio station (WBACH) and a glass of cider or wine, one can assemble relatively few ingredients in a tasty dinner.  The Spanish frittatas seem to have been designed for easy individual servings. A couple of eggs with a variety of ingredients will produce an almost infinite selection of taste tempting frittatas.

             Dinner frittata variations                                                                 

            Sauté ¼ onion and 1 medium potato, peeled and sliced thinly in 1 Tblsp. olive oil for about 5 minutes on medium high heat, stirring often. Add a ½ cup broccoli florets  and ¼ cup thin strips of salami or ham (optional) and continue to sauté for additional 3 minutes. In the meantime beat the two eggs with 2 Tblsp. milk, salt and pepper and pour over the sautéed mixture. Sprinkle with a handful of cheese. Cover pan tightly with a lid and continue to cook on low heat for 3-5 minutes. Different flavors can be achieved by substituting mushrooms, spinach, asparagus or other cooked vegetables for broccoli.

            The question of cooking meat for one is another matter.  Unless you focus on steak, which is easy enough on a grill, winter cooking in cold climates requires a different strategy. First there is the matter of packaging. A pound of beef, chicken or pork may not look like much, but is certainly more than is needed for one meal. A pound of frozen shrimp makes it very easy, since you can just thaw out the amount needed for a meal. For meat it is certainly possible to use only one piece and freeze the rest of the uncooked portion of the package; a little planning allows us to save on labor with the option of cooking the entire amount in such a way that it can form the meat basis for several other, but different meals. Years ago as a graduate student I got very tired of just plain hamburger 4 nights in a row, so I learned that if you made the same pound of ground beef in a lot of meatballs, had some for dinner and froze the rest in small packets, to be thawed and combined with different sauces at later dates, it was a much more interesting meal experience.

                                    Versatile light meatballs

            In a large bowl mix ½ cup Italian breadcrumbs with 1/3 cup milk to moisten. Stir in 1 beaten egg, Tblsp. Worcestershire sauce, 1 tsp. salt ¼ tsp. pepper, 2 Tblsp. finely chopped onion,  1 Tblsp. catsup.  Blend in 1 lb. lean ground beef and make into ¾ inch balls.  Lightly grease a large cookie pan with sides and distribute the meatballs so that they do not touch. Bake in a 350 degree oven 30 minutes. Drain any fat and use as miniature hamburgers or meatballs with spaghetti sauce or barbecue sauce, or as meat base in brown-mushroom sauce with or without sour cream. These even make great Italian sandwiches with sautéed onions, peppers and a bit of melted Provolone cheese.

            So, take an evening to be creative at your own table and enjoy both the cooking and the meal in your own (sometimes) best company.   

(I. Winicov Harrington lives in Waldoboro and is the author of “How to Eat Healthy and Well for Less than $5.00 a Day: the Smart-Frugal Food Plan”; website: www.winicov-harrington.com)

MEAL AND MENU INSPIRATIONS

Meal Inspirations

            “I cook mostly out of magazines these days” my friend exclaimed recently in her kitchen, as she was putting the finishing touches to a delicious looking dinner. My husband and I were visiting friends in Vermont and were the beneficiaries of her hospitality. I thought of her comment on a Friday morning standing in the Damariscotta Farmers market. A farmers market is my idea of visual meal inspirations by what is abundant and fresh in front of me.

It was cold!  The sunny morning air whipped around by the blustery wind belied the fact that fall was officially a week away. The woman selling goat cheese from Appleton Creamery had a Norwegian cap to cover her ears and a wool scarf around her neck. This goat cheese was going to go well with roasted beets in a salad next week.  Most of the stands this morning were in the open and their proprietors had jacket collars turned up against the wind. The tomatoes, carrots, greens, squash, potatoes and flowers though seemed not to mind and simply shone with the success of having produced a bountiful organic crop in every stand representing each farm. The boxes of blackberries looked plump and mouthwatering for desert.

The cold influenced my choice of roast chicken from Maine-Ly Poultry for dinner to be served with some new potatoes. I would have the rest of the roasted chicken in a cream sauce with mushrooms from my favorite Damariscotta Oyster Creek Mushroom Company. My own garden is still producing green beans and the end of the season tomatoes would be served with sliced red onion, black olives and feta cheese, lightly dressed with olive oil and balsamic vinegar. The dinner menu and ingredients practically leaped at me as I made the rounds on the grassy hillside.

And then there are unplanned benefits from overheard conversations as you stand in line waiting for your turn at the Hahn’s End cheese company. A customer was inquiring about a cheese for a grilled sandwich, commenting on a previous encounter with a mushroom–melted cheese focaccia. Cheese is a particular weakness at our house and aged cheeses find their way to our table with great regularity. I thought of the fall vegetable soup I had made just yesterday and could instantly conjure a no fuss lunch with Eleanor Buttercup cheese melted on French bread as accompaniment to that soup. A few grape and yellow pear tomatoes and a fresh pickle slice would accompany the open-faced melted cheese sandwich to give it some eye appeal. 

                        Fall vegetable soup

This soup can be hearty or light, depending on the amount and types of vegetables used, but it is essentially ready to serve in about 30 minutes. For basic soup: chop and sauté in 2 Tblsp, olive oil 1 onion, 1 large stalk of celery and 2 cloves garlic for 5 minutes. Add 26 oz beef or chicken or vegetable stock, 2 cups water, 1 tsp. dried oregano and thyme each. ¼ tsp. red pepper flakes and salt to taste. Bring to boil and add the following in bite size pieces: 2 carrots, 1 large potato, 1 medium zucchini or small eggplant, 1-2 cups chopped tomatoes, 1 cup coarsely chopped cabbage, 1 cup sliced string beans or Swiss chard, ¼ cup parsley, ¼ cup basil. Cook for 25 minutes, stir in 1 Tblsp. balsamic vinegar and serve with additional chopped parsley and/or Parmesan cheese.  Addition of a can of rinsed garbanzos or beans will make this an even heartier soup.

As demonstrated, meal inspirations at a farmers market are almost too easy. Other times I have taken the really easy way by coming home with an already made chicken pie or some of the Oriental specialties from Jyang-Lee Kitchens. Although the Damariscotta Farmers’ Market is available only until October 28, apples, root vegetables and an incredible variety of winter squashes will continue to be available at Beth’s in Warren until Christmas. I will have to go back to my cookbooks from then until spring. 

(I. Winicov Harrington lives in Waldoboro and is the author of “How to Eat Healthy and Well for Less than $5.00 a Day: the Smart-Frugal Food Plan”; website: www.winicov-harrington.com)

MEATLESS DINNERS

Meatless Dinners

            To look at any food related publication today, it is impossible to ignore the nutritionists advice about minimizing our meat cravings and the suggestion that we aim for a more vegetarian diet.  In fact, the current USDA “Food Plate” diagram suggests that we fill our plate mostly with whole grains, vegetables and fruits, minimizing the amount of meat and the accompanying fat in our diet. So, to offset a great steak dinner, one might balance it with a meatless dinner on another evening.

            This often is harder done than said, even if my vegetarian friends are likely to disagree.  First, there is the problem of the escalating prices for both fruit and vegetables if you have a limited food budget.  The only way to deal with this is to shop for seasonal specials, and if possible in bulk that will keep refrigerated, such as a 3 or 5 lb pack of carrots. A thrifty purchase of a head of cabbage can be used in many meals, since it will keep fresh in the refrigerator for several weeks and any minor discolored portions on a previously cut surface can be easily cut away before use.   Other fresh vegetables need to be used quickly to preserve the maximum vitamin content; hence planning ahead for several meals where the vegetables can be used as a side dish and also incorporated in a soup will minimize waste and stretch the family food dollar.

Dried beans, lentils and garbanzos are a real budget saver and are fortunately available year around.  Soaking dried beans or garbanzos in cold water overnight reduces their cooking time to an hour, making them a good value for a variety of dishes, many of which are great when reheated and thus adaptable to use for multiple time saving meals. Lentils cook in 20 to 30 minutes without soaking and are even more convenient.

The second problem comes from the misguided perception that a vegetable dish has to be bland and hence unappetizing.  A flavorful lentil stew with crisp bread and a salad is good anytime at our house, especially on a cold winter evening. Another filling vegetarian main course that incorporates a significant amount of vegetable, such as zucchini or yellow summer squash, is always a bonus this time of the year. The fall harvest still abounds in farmers markets and even our own gardens and provides the local fresh ingredients we savor.

                        Almond-zucchini gratin.

            In a large bowl mix 4 cups coarsely grated zucchini or yellow summer squash with 1 ¼ cups Italian bread crumbs, 2/3 cups grated cheddar cheese and ¼ cup grated Parmesan cheese. In 2 Tblsp. butter sauté 1 large chopped onion with ¼ tsp. garlic powder and ¼ tsp. thyme for 5 minutes, add in 1 tsp. salt, ¼ tsp. pepper and ½ cup slivered almonds to heat and stir into the zucchini mixture. Turn all in a buttered 8x8 inch casserole. In a small bowl beat together 2 large eggs and ½ cup milk. Pour over the zucchini mixture in the casserole, making sure that it is evenly moistened. Sprinkle with grated sharp cheddar cheese or cover with thin slices of Provolone and bake in 350 degree oven for 40 minutes until top is browned and the filling is set. Serve warm as main course or a vegetable side. This dish freezes well and can be reheated.

            Mushroom soufflé for two.

            Don’t let the word soufflé intimidate you.  We are really talking about a mushroom-cottage cheese-egg bake.  Heat oven to 300 degrees and grease a 1 quart casserole. Separate two large eggs and beat the egg whites to stiff peaks with an electric mixer. In another bowl beat the egg yolks till light and foamy.  Blend 2 Tbls. milk in 3 Tblsp. flour and add to egg yolks, beat well. Add salt and pepper to taste and 1 cup cottage cheese and beat until well blended. Gently fold in 2 Tblsp. minced onion or 1 tsp. onion powder, the stiffly beaten egg whites and one 4 oz can sliced mushrooms, drained. Turn mixture into the casserole and bake about 50 minutes or until golden brown on top. If you are an early riser, this would even taste good for breakfast.

            While some of us are likely to persist in our omnivore habits, having a meatless meal is really no hardship at all and provides a welcome and delicious variety for the table.

            (I. Winicov Harrington lives in Waldoboro and is the author of “How to Eat Healthy and Well for Less than $5.00 a Day: the Smart-Frugal Food Plan”; website: www.winicov-harrington.com)

THE FIRST ROSE OF AUTUMN

Unlike Edward Weston's museum masterpiece, this specimen from my garden is destined for some delicious meals this fall. Baked red cabbage with wine and apples is bound to please everyone at the table.

This delectable transformation from visual to edible art can be accomplished as follows. Cook 4 slices thick cut bacon until crisp and drain on paper towels. Pour off all but 2 tablespoons of the bacon fat in which saute over medium heat 1 chopped red onion and 4-5 cups coarsely shredded red cabbage for about 15 minutes. Season with salt and pepper and pour in 1 cup red wine. Bring the liquid to boil and continue cooking until almost all the liquid is absorbed. Transfer the cooked cabbage to a casserole and ring with apple slices that have been sauteed in 1-2 Tblsp. butter for 5 minutes. Sprinkle the center portion with roughly crumbled bacon. Serve immediately or can be re-heated for 20 minutes in a 300 degree oven. This dish makes an excellent acommpaniement to pork or roast beef.

THRIFTY GOOD FOOD: Corn - off the Cob -

Corn – off the cob

            No, this is not a column of corny jokes in response to the winter storm Mother Nature surprised us with on April first. Rather I’m feeling deprived this time of year of our summer bounty. Thoughts of easy suppers with corn on the cob come floating through my mind and I can almost taste the sweetness of each kernel. Fortunately canned or frozen corn kernels are easily available and provide a basis for tasty and economical meals.

Southern cooking has always assuaged springtime yearnings for corn with their recipes for corn pudding, which is a sweet side dish to be served with ham or even roast lamb.  Because it requires very little flour, it is easy to substitute brown rice flour in this recipe and make it a gluten free dish. Here is my versatile Northern version of this dish with less sugar and a more hearty taste for our less than balmy spring days.

                                    Hearty corn pudding

            In a small bowl stir together: ¼ cup all purpose wheat or brown rice flour, 2 Tblsp. corn meal, 1 tsp. baking powder, ½  tsp. salt, 1 Tblsp. onion powder and 1 Tblsp. dried parsley. In a large bowl beat with a mixer 4 eggs with 1 Tblsp. sugar, stir in 1 ¼ cups milk, 4 Tblsp. melted butter and the flour mix. Stir in 1 (12oz.) can creamed corn, 12 ounces drained canned or thawed frozen corn kernels, 1 cup shredded sharp cheddar cheese and 1 cup thawed lima beans. Pour mix in a greased 2-quart baking dish and sprinkle with coarsely shredded 2 oz. of Parmesan cheese. Bake in a 350-degree oven for 45 minutes.

            This also makes an excellent brunch casserole with thick strips of ham or asparagus arranged decoratively on the corn mixture, before the final sprinkle of shredded Parmesan cheese. For this use an 11x7x2 inch baking dish to have more surface area for the ham and asparagus topping. Bake as above.

            Another easy and quick meal can be made using flour tortillas folded around corn,  cheese and chipotle chiles for a lively quesadilla.

                                    Corn and cheese quesadilla

            Stir together: 1 cup thawed frozen corn, 1 ½ cups coarsely grated Monterey Jack or Swiss cheese, 2 Tblsp. mayonnaise, 2 thinly sliced scallions, 1 Tbls. chopped canned chipotle chiles or hot banana pepper slices.  Brush 4 (8 inch) flour tortillas lightly with oil.  Turn them over and spread ¼ of the corn mixture over half of each tortilla. Fold the other half over in a half moon shape. Heat ½ Tblsp. vegetable oil in a large (preferably ridged) pan over moderate heat and cook the quesadillas two at a time about 2 minutes per side. Serve cut in half with some salsa and/or chopped cherry tomatoes and sour cream. To make this dish gluten free, use small corn tortillas with the filling between two for a sandwich effect, since corn tortillas tend to break when folded over.

            For a heartier meal, fold in 1 cup chopped cooked chicken or ham in the corn mixture and proceed as above.  This and a salad will make a fine meal and you can always dream of those August days, when corn on the cob is plentiful and these dishes will taste even better when made with corn freshly cut off the cob.  

(I. Winicov Harrington lives in Waldoboro and is the author of “How to Eat Healthy and Well for Less than $5.00 a Day: the Smart-Frugal Food Plan”; website: www.winicov-harrington.com)

Published in the Lincoln County News

PRECARIOUS FREE LUNCH (published in Lincoln County News)

Hard to get here, but tastes good after a winter's nap. Photo: IWH

CELEBRATE SPRING

Celebrate Spring.

            Even though the turkeys have a hard time wading though the deep snow in our yard, the recent rains and ‘a bit” warmer weather have us yearning for spring.  After all, daylight saving’s time is here and that is certainly supposed to be sign of spring. The most reliable sign of spring in Maine of course is the beginning of the Maple Sugaring Season, which has just started.

            Maple sugar and syrup have been made in the Northeast since before the arrival of colonists and once were the primary source of sugar by Native American tribes. With the introduction of cane sugar, maple products have become more of a prized specialty item in the kitchen.  Whenever I visit friends and family out of state, they are eager for my offering of a jug of Maine maple syrup.

            While the methods of syrup production from maple sap have changed from wood fired evaporation to modern stainless steel evaporators, the Maine Maple Producers are found in every part of the state. The production areas range from the largest in Aroostook County to the smallest in Portland and Casco Bay area and contribute significantly to Maine economy. You can find more information at: www.mainemapleproducers.com.

It takes about 10 gallons of sap to produce 1 quart of syrup.  Maple syrup has the healthy attributes of being rich in calcium, potassium, iron, magnesium and manganese as well as containing B vitamins, niacin, biotin and folic acid. And, a tablespoon of maple syrup has only 50 calories, which is 20% calories less than corn syrup.

            Most of us love the taste of maple syrup on pancakes, waffles and French toast. But the distinctive maple flavor can also enhance sweet potatoes, baked beans or apples as well as feature prominently in such dishes as pork ribs and chicken wings together with other barbeque ingredients. Including a teaspoon of maple syrup in a vinaigrette for a salad featuring grapefruit or orange sections with fennel is very tasty.

            This time of year, when I think of serving an ham, one of my favorite glazes is made with maple syrup. Mix together 2 Tblsp. melted butter and 2 Tblsp. melted red currant jelly, 3 Tblsp. maple syrup, 1 Tblsp. dry mustard and 2 Tblsp. lemon juice. Spread the cooled mixture on ham at the end of the baking period, increase temperature to 400 degrees and return ham to oven until the glaze is set. For thicker glaze, baste an additional time while baking.

            Asparagus is another harbinger of spring in the kitchen. Although it is now available throughout the year, asparagus in the spring makes a special seasonal statement with any meal. Washed asparagus is easy to prepare. Remove the tough bottom portion of the stalk by simply snapping it of where it breaks naturally and boil the spear portion in salted water for 4 minutes. You can dress the asparagus stalks on the serving plate with melted butter and thin lemon slices or slivers of Parmesan cheese. Another delicious, but more caloric choice is Hollandaise sauce. While the cooked version can be tricky, here is my quick adaptation from an old Craig Clairborne recipe. Place 3 egg yolks, 2 Tblsp. lemon juice, dash of salt and a dash of Tabasco in a blender. Heat ½ cup butter without browning to bubbling on the stovetop. Start the blender and slowly add the melted butter to the egg mixture through top opening of the lid. Blend for about 10-15 seconds until smooth and thickened.

            I find an interesting taste variation in pan-roasted asparagus. Prepare asparagus as above and dry on paper towels. In a large pan melt 1 Tblsp. butter and 2 Tblsp. olive oil. Place the asparagus in a single layer in a pan and roast on medium heat for about 8 minutes, turning the spears with tongs so that they are slightly browned on sides. Remove to a serving platter and drizzle with Oriental vinaigrette: mix 2 Tblsp. light soy sauce, 1 Tblsp. lemon juice, 1 Tblsp. rice vinegar and a pinch of tarragon.  Happy Spring!

(I. Winicov Harrington lives in Waldoboro and is the author of “How to Eat Healthy and Well for Less than $5.00 a Day: the Smart-Frugal Food Plan; website: www.winicov-harrington.com)

MARCH WITH IRISH FLAVORS

St.Patrick's Day Tastes: Irish flavors.

            As the saying goes: “On St. Patrick’s day, everybody is Irish”. We get caught up in the exuberance, the music and the joyous gift of blarney. Some of the notable excesses for the day even on this side of “the pond” include green beer and in some years past, Chicago has made its river run green for the occasion.  We love the thought of people so passionate that they are willing to kiss a stone for the source of eloquence in County Cork.

            In contrast, less well known is Irish food. Except for noting the ubiquitous ads for corn beef and cabbage in early in March, most of us would be hard pressed to come up with a list of Irish specialties. My husband, of Irish descent, could only come up with oatmeal. We both like Irish oatmeal for breakfast and find that ¾ cups of Maine steel cut oats cooked with 2 ½ cups water and salt for 30 minutes makes a satisfying breakfast for two, that is nearly as flavorful as the Irish variety of oats.  A bit of research uncovered such colorfully named dishes as:” Skirlie, Soda or Potato Farls, Crubeens, Clapshot, Boxty and Dublin coddle. However more approachable are: stews and savory pies.

The traditional dishes focus  on local food for survival and include: potatoes, cabbage, oatmeal and meat in the form of bacon, sausage and lamb or mutton, often in thrifty and tasty preparations that are even timely today. More modern emphasis on local food features lamb and the bountiful seafood harvest from local waters, which include mussels, salmon and oysters. Guinness stout of course has a featured role not only on St. Paddy’s Day and in the pub, but also in dishes as diverse as lamb shanks with Guinness and Irish rarebit.

The traditional corn beef is actually quite easy to prepare. Place a rinsed 3 lb. piece of corn beef in a Dutch oven with a tight fitting lid, cover barely with water and add the spice packet that usually comes with it.  In absence of a spice packet add 2 bay leaves, 4 allspice berries, 2 tsp. black peppercorns, 2 cloves and salt. Bring to boil, cover tightly with a lid and braise in a 300 degree oven for 3 ½ hours. Remove meat from the liquid and cover to keep warm.  On top of the stove, add 8 small red potatoes cut in half and 4 cleaned carrots sliced in 2 ½ inch pieces to the braising liquid and boil until vegetable are soft for about 20 minutes. As for the cabbage, I prefer to stir fry cabbage strips about ½ inch wide in 1 Tblsp. each of olive and sesame oils, sprinkle with salt and 1 tsp. caraway seed and ¼ cup beef broth. Cover and simmer for 5 minutes and serve with the sliced corned beef and vegetables.

Another popular dish is Shepherd’s pie, which is an easy one dish meal and a good way to use up any leftover mashed potatoes. Brown 1 lb lean ground beef in a heavy pan and set aside. In the same pan sauté 1 large chopped onion until softened (about 5 minutes), stir in 2 chopped garlic cloves and 1 tsp. dried thyme for an additional minute. Stir in the contents of a 14 oz can of chopped tomatoes, a package of frozen peas and carrots, ½ package of Au jus mix and 1 cup of water. Bring to a boil and cook for 5 minutes.  Return the meat to the pan, mix thoroughly and transfer to a two-quart baking dish.  If you have 1-2 cups of leftover mashed potatoes, heat them in a microwave and beat in some hot milk with an electric mixer. Spread over the meat and vegetable mixture and brush with melted butter.  Place in a 425^o oven for 15 to 20 minutes until thoroughly heated through and the potatoes are slightly browned. If you do not have leftover mashed potatoes: peel, quarter and boil 5-6 medium potatoes with salt. Drain when quite soft, mash and whip with an electric mixer and about 1/3 cup hot milk to make fresh mashed potatoes. 

            This satisfying meal could be partnered with some stout in honor of the day, or followed by a cup of steaming Irish coffee for desert. The leprechauns will certainly whisk away any dreaded calories.

(I. Winicov Harrington lives in Waldoboro and is the author of “How to Eat Healthy and Well for Less than $5.00 a Day: the Smart-Frugal Food Plan. ”; website: www.winicov-harrington.com)

The Magic of Kitchen Herbs - Published in The Lincoln Co. News

The Magic of Kitchen Herbs

             This time of year, those of us who garden or would like to garden next year, are inexorably drawn to all the glossy garden and seed catalogues that have accumulated since January 1.  The possibility and choices of what to grow next summer and the potential wonderful and colorful vegetable and salad servings for our table are so irresistible, that it would take a small truck farm if we were to have all that is appealing.  It seems that each year we encounter new or newly discovered heirloom varieties of vegetables and the garden herb assortment seems to be growing by leaps and bounds, invoking and complementing the modern expanding kitchen repertoire.

            While perusing my collection of garden catalogs, I also found buried under the papers on my desk a booklet, which was recently forwarded to me by my sister in law and which had been on my mother in law’s shelf lo those many years ago. The booklet is simply entitled “Colonial Kitchen Herbs” and was compiled some 40 years ago by Ferne Shelton as ‘garden and kitchen secrets from early America’.

            Well, we are quite mistaken if we think that Early American kitchen fare was inevitably plain. The herbal traditions developed by monks in the Middle Ages and published in England even before Shakespeare’s time migrated to the New World and flourished in frontier gardens and kitchens. Herbs were grown and stored dried for winter to be added to meats, soups, vegetables and used for not only flavoring vinegars, but also often as folk remedies. Most of those are used today.  Herb teas were used as restoratives for everything from colds to hysteria, indigestion, constipation, rheumatism and numerous other ailments. Today’s herbal tea industry seems to have re-discovered many of the ingredients of yesteryear.

            Stews were and still are favorite winter meals that require slow cooking and have the added benefit of improved flavor for multiple meals upon reheating. A simple way to add multiple herbal flavors to such dishes is by adding a “Herb Bouquet” (herbs tied in a cheese cloth bag), which is removed at the end of the cooking period.  For beef such a “Boquet” could include: 6 peppercorns, bay leaf, 1tsp. each of  sweet marjoram, thyme and parsley leaves; or basil and summer savory with peppercorns and celery leaves. Each will give a slightly different flavor to the finished meal.  We tend to think of sage as paired with poultry, but poultry can be also seasoned with sweet marjoram, summer savory and even a light touch of rosemary for a unique flavor.

            It is interesting to contemplate the delicious variations we can introduce in our meals with just a handful of spices on our shelf. Soups benefit from combinations of parsley, thyme, marjoram, tarragon, celery, bay leaf and savory. For each dish the goal is to add flavor and not overpower the meal with any one herb.   Adding some chervil or sage to a fish batter will give it an interesting new flavor. And any broiled or lightly fried fish will take on a delightfully new characteristic with a dollop of reduced fat sour cream in which you have stirred in some dill and or chives.

            Individual vegetable dishes or salads take better to some herbs than others.  We naturally pair tomatoes with basil or oregano, but chives and thyme are equally compatible and thinly sliced fennel gives a tomato salad a whole new dimension. I will usually add dry mustard and minced onion to chicken, potato, tuna, egg and cabbage salads; however a lively and interesting addition can be ¼ or ½ tsp. celery seed.

            Some more exotic additions to my spice shelf are roasted cumin and turmeric, which pair so well in chili and other meat and bean dishes. A real taste treat is smoked paprika compatible with eggs, meat and even sautéed cabbage. Unfortunately these can not be grown in our gardens and like cinnamon, cardamom, cloves, ginger and nutmeg have to be imported from warmer climates. However, most kitchen herbs can be grown in pots and in our own Northern gardens.  Their flavor magic is welcome not only in our winter menus, but is worth planning for in next summer’s kitchen herb border.   

(I. Winicov Harrington lives in Waldoboro and is the author of “How to Eat Healthy and Well for Less than $5.00 a Day: the Smart-Frugal Food Plan”; website: www.winicov-harrington.com)

New Year's Food Resolutions - as published in The Lincoln Co. News

New Year’s Food Resolutions

            How many of us have sat down on New Years day, if not with pen and paper or iPad, then at least just a mindful of intentions of how to improve things in the New Year? It may be just the annual response to some level of guilt for all the excesses we have indulged during the closing months of the last year or a simple “morning after” response of  “I can do better” in terms of health, finances or even our regional community.

            In regards to all three of these aims, food plays a significant role. Health: I will aim to eat a more healthful diet and maybe even shed a few of those newly accumulated pounds.  Finances: I will plan for at least some economical meals to be prepared at home by shopping with a plan that includes seasonal foods and hence saves money and minimizes waste.  Regional community: I will aim to use more seasonal foods, especially those that are produced locally.

            As I compile my personal list of resolutions, I prefer to call them - aims. Too rigid an interpretation of them would deprive us of the varieties of citrus that brighten our tables in the winter even up here in Maine.  And while citrus are not local, they are at their seasonal best in winter. Broiled grapefruit with just a sprinkle of sugar and nutmeg is one of the treats of my morning breakfast as I watch blue jays and doves squabbling over the corn on our snowy deck.

            For a healthy low calorie lunch, it is hard to beat my tomato-cabbage soup, which I have previously described in my book.  This is quick and easy as well as low in calories and is equally tasty made either with only cabbage or rice.

                                    Tomato Cabbage Soup

            Bring to boil 2 cups chicken or vegetable broth, add 1-2 cups coarsely shredded cabbage and continue to cook for 15 minutes. Add 2 cups tomato (or V8) juice and 1 cup cooked rice (optional). Heat to boiling and serve.  If you like things spicy, a dash of Tabasco sauce will certainly liven up this flavorful soup.

            For local flavor, it is Maine shrimp season again and it is a delight to have these fresh and delectable small shrimp for a variety of dishes in the kitchen.  Recently we enjoyed a new version of a quesadilla recipe for supper. It combines two of our local products, Maine shrimp and potatoes in a surprisingly filling combination.

                                    Maine Shrimp and Potato Quesadillas

            Thinly slice a large peeled potato, cover with cold water plus 1 tsp. salt and bring to boil. Boil for 5 minutes, drain potatoes thoroughly and roughly mash with 2 Tblsp. milk or broth. Leftover boiled potatoes can be substituted in this step. In a large bowl thoroughly mix: the prepared potatoes, ¼ cup Parmesan cheese, 1 cup shredded Jack cheese, 8 ounces Maine shrimp meats, rinsed and patted dry, 2 finely chopped green scallions, 1 Tblsp. finely chopped jalapeno pepper (optional), ½ tsp. salt and 2-3 Tblsp. light mayonnaise or sour cream. Divide the mixture among four 8 inch flour tortillas. Set the mixture in a long strip along the center of the tortilla, fold over the tortilla and lightly flatten it closed. Brush both sides of the folded tortilla with vegetable oil and fry in a medium hot non-stick pan 2-3 minutes on a side.  Turn off the heat, cover and let stand for another 2 minutes until the shrimp are cooked through. Alternatively bake at 400 degrees for 6 minutes followed by a short period under the broiler to lightly brown the tortilla. Serve hot with dilled light sour cream and salsa if desired.

            Having written my New Years resolutions/aims the old fashioned way with paper and pencil, I’m probably admitting to their impermanence. But since there are many tasty economical ways to keep them, it is worth the try!

(I. Winicov Harrington lives in Waldoboro and is the author of “How to Eat Healthy and Well for Less than $5.00 a Day: the Smart-Frugal Food Plan”; website: www.winicov-harrington.com)