Monday, October 26, 2020

UNEXPECTED TREASURES: PUMPKIN AND EGGPLANT

 

Unexpected Treasures: Pumpkin and Eggplant

 

          The old proverb: ”When life gives you lemons – make lemonade”, has connotations of turning sour or unpleasant aspects of life into something more pleasant or useful. There are many clever quips to this saying such as “—make tequila” and for Mainers “—find a lobster tail”. But joking aside, there are times when the home cook is faced with an unexpected bounty of something in his or her kitchen and suddenly needs to come up with a recipe to do this bounty justice.

          This being October and Halloween time, I found myself recently in possession of more small pie pumpkins than needed for my decorations. Fortunately I recalled the French regional recipe for pumpkin gratin from “The Vegetarian Bistro” by Marlena Spieler, which I had slightly modified previously and found unexpectedly flavorful and delicious.

                             Pumpkin Gratin with Tomato and Red Pepper

          Peel, seed and dice a small pie-pumpkin, lightly butter a 12 inch round baking dish  or gratin dish. Preheat the oven to 350 degrees.

1)    Wash, halve and thinly slice a leek, using white and pale green parts.

2)    Prepare the vegetables by dicing: ½ large seeded red bell pepper, 3 small tomatoes. Cut 5 sundried tomatoes in thin strips and mince 3 garlic cloves.

3)    In a large pan sauté the pumpkin with leek in 1 tablespoon butter and 1 tablespoon olive oil for 15 minutes until golden. Add the red pepper, all the tomatoes and continue to sauté for 15 additional minutes.

4)    Stir in ½ cup dry white wine and cook until the volume is reduced by half.

5)    Stir in half the minced garlic, 2 tablespoons tomato paste, 1 teaspoon herbes de Provence, 1 teaspoon salt, ¼ teaspoon pepper and ½ cup heavy cream.

6)    Heat the mixture though and pour in the prepared baking dish.

7)    Mix the remaining garlic with 2 teaspoons olive oil, 3 tablespoons fresh bread crumbs and 3 tablespoons grated Asiago cheese. Sprinkle bread crumb mix on top of the pumpkin and bake at 350 degrees for 25 minutes. Serve hot.

My second unexpected bounty arrived one morning in the form of a small bag of Japanese eggplants. My friend had delayed  cleaning up her garden because of our warm fall this year, and in the meantime her eggplants had produced another big crop. Not to waste such a gift, It was time for a delightful recipe for a vegetable cassoulet, originally vegetarian, I had previously modified from “The Vegetarian Bistro” by adding eggplant, onion, additional texture in the form of oriental wood ear mushrooms and substituting chicken broth for vegetable broth.

        Vegetable Cassoulet

          Soak 1 cup small white beans overnight in cold water. Cannellini beans are particularly good for this.

1)    Drain, rinse the beans and place in a pot covered by 1-2 inches of water. Add 1 bay leaf and bring to boil. Reduce heat to simmer and cook on low heat for 1 hour. Add 1 teaspoon of salt and cook for an additional 30 minutes, the beans should not be too soft. Drain and set aside.

2)    While beans are cooking prepare the other vegetables. Dice: 1 large seeded red pepper, 1 carrot, 4 fresh tomatoes and 1 medium peeled potato, to be kept under water until cooking.  Mince 4 garlic cloves. Set 5-6 Japanese eggplants sliced in half on a baking sheet, spray with olive oil, sprinkle with garlic salt and broil on both sides until browned. Cut eggplant in bite size pieces.

3)    Pour boiling water over 3-4 large wood ear mushrooms and soak submerged for 30 minutes. Remove from the water and cut in strips or small pieces. Wipe clean and slice 4 ounces white or cremini mushrooms. Sauté 1 chopped onion and the fresh mushrooms in 1 tablespoon olive oil and butter each for 5 minutes, stir in 1 tablespoon lemon juice and the chopped wood ear mushrooms, cook until all the moisture is absorbed and set aside,

4)    In a large heavy pan sauté the pepper, carrot and potato in 2 tablespoons olive oil for 8 minutes over medium heat until lightly browned. Stir in the tomatoes and mushrooms ½ teaspoon thyme, 1 ½ teaspoons herbes de Provence, flavor with salt and pepper and cook for 5 minutes.

5)    In a large preferably earthenware casserole put alternate layers of vegetables and beans, pouring in 1 cup dry red wine and 1 cup or more of chicken or vegetable broth until well covered with liquid. Cover with tight fitting lid and bake for 1 ½ hours at 325 degrees..

6)    Meanwhile mince 2 large garlic cloves and combine with 1 cup fresh bread crumbs, 1 tablespoon olive oil and ¼ cup chopped parsley.

7)    Increase oven temperature to 400 degrees. Remove casserole from oven, remove lid and make sure the contents are somewhat soupy by adjusting with broth. Spread 1/3 of crumb mix on top. Return to bake for 15 minutes. Break the crust and stir in cassoulet. Return to oven and repeat one more time. Leave crust on top the last time and serve immediately. The dish reheats well.

Well used bounty can sometimes be a bit lengthy to prepare, but the flavors are well worth the effort and are often even better when reheated.

(I. Winicov Harrington lives in coastal Maine and is the author of “How to Eat Healthy and Well for Less than $5.00 a Day: the Smart-Frugal Food Plan”; website: www.winicov-harrington.com)

 

 

 

Tuesday, October 13, 2020

OLD STANDARDS UPDATED

 

Old Standards Updated

           Most cooks have kitchen shelves full of cookbooks and folders of new recipes yet to be tried. We are constantly urged to explore new cuisines of the world with their flavors and sometimes exotic ingredients. Unless one is a professional cook/chef, other considerations come to mind in having to put everyday meals on the table, such as time and ease of preparation and the extra bonus, that the dish that might serve as a backbone for several meals.

          There is nothing like roast chicken to fill all those considerations. I have known people who do not enjoy cooking, but the one thing they have mastered is roast chicken, because of these qualities. If you are on a budget, it even has the virtue of being thrifty. However, recently I came up with an update to my long time favorite ‘lemon roasted chicken. It required very little in new ingredients, but the results were an exceptionally moist and tasty bird.


                                             Miso-roasted Chicken

          Rinse and pat dry a four-pound whole chicken, reserving giblets for soup to be cooked later. Rub inside and the breast under the skin with some coarse salt and brush the skin overall with fresh lemon juice. Put several slices of lemon in the bird’s cavity and place it on a rack in a roasting pan. Preheat oven to 350 degrees on the roast setting.

1)    In a small bowl mix: 2 tablespoons melted butter, lemon juice and white miso paste each with ¼ cup chicken broth. Set aside also ¾ cup of chicken broth mixed with 2 tablespoons lemon.

2)    Brush chicken with the miso-mix overall and place in the oven set to roast for 1 hour 30 minutes. After30 minutes brush with more miso-mix and then every 20 minutes with miso-mix and pan drippings. Once the bird is fairly dark, switch to basting with the lemony-chicken broth and drippings.

3)    Remove the chicken to a plate and allow to rest while you are making the gravy, since that is one of the required components for roast chicken, at least at our house.

4)    Place the roasting pan on a burner after removing the rack and on low heat stir in 2 ½  tablespoons flour in the drippings mixing in thoroughly. Slowly add the lemony chicken broth scraping up browned bits with constant stirring to prevent formation of lumps. Stir in the remaining miso-mix and enough water to the desired consistency for the gravy. Adjust salt and pepper seasonings and stir in 1 tablespoon balsamic vinegar.

5)    Serve the miso-roasted chicken with mashed potatoes, the gravy and vegetable or salad of your choice. Leftover chicken and gravy makes an excellent lunch over toast and the carcass and giblets are an excellent base for soup.

This is the time of the year every farmers market and fruit stand is bursting with mounds of apples of colorful and mouthwatering variety neatly arranged in an assortment of baskets. A juicy crisp apple is a refreshing treat, but apples baked in a fragrant desert insinuate by aroma and promise true comfort food. The next recipe is an update of a quick desert I devised many years ago.

                   Cinnamon-Apple Flatbread

Line a 9x13 inch pan with parchment paper and pre-heat oven to bake at 350 degrees. Unroll the dough of a package of Crescent Dough from the Deli case in your market and spread out flat on the pan to closely fit in a long rectangle, which is going to be slightly smaller than the pan. Push the seams together with your fingers to seal.

1)    Prepare the topping by blending together ½ cup sugar with 1 teaspoon of cinnamon and ¼ teaspoon nutmeg.

2)    Pare and quarter 3 large firm apples such as Cortland, Pink Lady or Braeburn. Drop the quarters in 3 cups of water acidified with 1 tablespoon lemon juice to prevent discoloration.

3)    Drain the water, pat the apple quarters dry and slice each quarter in 4-5 slices. Arrange the slices in 3 parallel rows lengthwise, slightly overlapping the slices on each other. Drizzle with 1 tablespoon lemon juice and brush with 2 tablespoons melted butter. Sprinkle the sugar topping evenly over the apples.

4)    Bake for 30 minutes; some of the sugar will caramelize along the edges. Serve this fragrant desert warm or cold cut in squares. The cake keeps well for a day, but will get softer on standing.

As each crisp day of autumn blends in the early evening twilight we look to food that comforts with familiar flavors, but updating those flavors can be intriguing and fun.

 (I. Winicov Harrington lives in coastal Maine and is the author of “How to Eat Healthy and Well for Less than $5.00 a Day: the Smart-Frugal Food Plan”; website: www.winicov-harrington.com)