Monday, September 16, 2019

END OF SUMMER PLEASURES


Tomato-Eggplant Bonanza

Summer’s end is one of those times the home cook either loves or hates. If you have a sizeable garden yourself, you are chained to the kitchen trying to preserve some of this fresh bounty for the dreary winter months. If you just enjoy the fresh produce that is so abundantly displayed in September farmer’s markets, you try to savor these fresh flavors on your everyday table in as many different ways as possible. This fleeting abundance is best found in mounds of fresh tomatoes and the glistening varicolored globes of mounded eggplants.


Eggplant is one of those vegetables that truly shines at summer’s end and comes in different varieties. We see the large dark purple globes throughout the year and they can be prepared in a variety of ways after peeling. Summer also brings us other varieties. Some are white or purple and white striped, usually smaller in size. These and the long thin Japanese eggplants have the added bonus of having thin skins that do not require peeling for use in any dish, which cuts time in preparation.
My patio Japanese eggplants recently had a bumper crop and after making a batch of Sicilian Caponata, there remained enough for my favorite September Tomato Eggplant soup. Since eggplants like zucchini contain a lot of moisture, slicing and broiling the sliced vegetables with a bit of oil and garlic salt improves their flavor and texture for the following recipes.
                   Tomato-Eggplant Bisque
Slice 2 eggplants in ½ inch slices or 6 long thin eggplants lengthwise. Lightly brush with olive oil and sprinkle with garlic salt. Broil 3-4 minutes to a side and set aside. In a 3-4 quart pot sauté a large chopped onion and 2 sliced stalks of celery in 2 tblsp. olive oil for 5 minutes. Stir in 3 chopped garlic cloves and after a minute add: 3 chopped large tomatoes, the eggplant, 32 oz. beef or vegetable broth, 1 cup of water, ¼ tsp. red pepper flakes, 1 tsp. herbes Provençe, 1 tblsp. Worcestershire sauce, ½ tsp. smoked paprika, 1 tsp. sugar and 8 oz. tomato sauce. Bring to boil and cook for 20 minutes. Allow to cool and purée in batches with some fresh basil, parsley and oregano (optional). Adjust to desired consistency with additional water. Reheat with 2 tblsp. balsamic vinegar. Serve hot with a dollop of sour cream and chopped chives. The soup can be made ahead and reheated and it freezes well.
Having proudly and successfully used up all my harvest, I was surprised by a friend with a gift of additional eggplant and tomatoes from her more elaborate garden. Well, never waste good produce! We had friends coming for lunch the next day, so it was back to the kitchen.
Eggplant Gratin with Linguica
Slice 2-3 medium large eggplants in ½ inch slices, broil as above and set aside. Coat with baking spray the bottom of a 10x7x2 inch baking dish and sprinkle with 2 tblsp. bread crumbs. In a small bowl whip 2 eggs with 1 1/2 cups flavorful spaghetti sauce. Slice 1 mild flavored linguica in thin rounds. Assemble gratin: 1 layer of eggplant, ½ of the sauce, scatter some basil leaves on the sauce, layer the linguica slices, ½ cup shredded mozzarella, ½ cup freshly grated Parmesan, another layer of eggplant, sauce and ½ cup parmesan. Top with 4 overlapping slices of provolone cheese and bake at 350 degrees for 30 minutes. Allow to sit for 10 minutes before serving. It can be made ahead and reheated covered for 20-30 minutes.
                   Lemony Sautéed Kale
The eggplant gratin went very well with this slightly spicy kale. In 2 tblsp. olive oil sauté 3 chopped garlic cloves, turn up the heat and add in batches 4-5 cups washed, deveined and sliced kale, ½ tsp. salt and a pinch of red pepper flakes. When kale is wilted squeezed the juice of a lemon on the kale. Add ¼ cup water, cover and cook on low heat for 10 minutes. Cook uncovered until any remaining liquid is gone. Serve warm.
When in doubt, improvise! With all that fresh goodness, you can’t go wrong.
(I. Winicov Harrington lives in coastal Maine and is the author of “How to Eat Healthy and Well for Less than $5.00 a Day: the Smart-Frugal Food Plan”; website: www.winicov-harrington.com)