SAVORY FAMILY DINNERS

                                        Savory family dinners

           Extended family dinners need not be a time of anxiety, rather they can be a time for exploration of tasty recipes, preferably of the relatively uncomplicated variety. As we come to May, occasions to gather seem to proliferate from Cinco de Maio to Mother’s Day, graduations and Memorial Day. The grill can simplify some events, but we may not always count on clement weather in May in Maine. Also, indoor gatherings have a charm of their own and afford a different venue of presentation for dinner.

          Pork tenderloin is a lean cut of meat (only 4% fat) that can be cooked quickly and is amenable to a variety of flavor preparations. The long thin 1 lb. fillet needs to be monitored carefully during cooking, as overcooked lean muscle fibers contract and become tough. USDA recommends that pork is cooked to an internal temperature of 145 degrees Fahrenheit, monitored best with a meat thermometer. 

                                     Roast pork tenderloin with apples

          Preheat oven to 400 degrees. Wipe two 1 lb. tenderloins dry and season with salt, pepper and a bit of garlic powder. Heat 1 tblsp. peanut oil in an ovenproof skillet and brown the tenderloins over moderately high heat for 5 minutes, turning with thongs to brown all sides. Transfer skillet to oven and bake for 15-18 minutes, till inside temperature registers 143 degrees. Remove from oven, transfer to a plate, loosely cover with foil and allow to rest at least 15 minutes, the temperature will continue to increase to 145.

          Peel, core and slice 2 large Granny Smith apples each, in 16 wedges. Heat 1 tblsp. unsalted butter in the same skillet and sauté the apple wedges for 5-6 minutes until golden brown and softened. Remove from skillet and set aside.

          Add 1 cup low salt chicken broth and 2/3 cup unfiltered apple cider to the pan and scrape up all drippings. Bring to boil and stir in 2/3 tsp. arrowroot dissolved in 1 tblsp. water and continue to cook until thickened and reduced to about 1 cup in volume. Stir in ½ tsp. salt, ¼ tsp. lemon pepper and 2 tsp. apple cider vinegar. Slice meat in ½ inch slices, serve with fried apples and sauce on the side. Leftover meat makes excellent sandwiches.

          Two side dishes that go well with the pork tenderloin are pistachio pilaf and carraway-cabbage-kimchi stir fry.

                                                          Pistachio pilaf

          Rinse 1 ¼ cups Basmati rice 3-4 times and drain. Sauté 2 diced shallots and 2 minced garlic cloves in 2 tblsp. butter in a pot for 3 minutes, stir in the washed rice and cook for a minute stirring until well mixed. Add 2 cups chicken broth, 1 tblsp. lime juice, cover tightly and cook on low heat for 20 minutes. Before serving fluff with a fork and stir in ½ cup shelled pistachios cut in half and ¼ cup Italian parsley.

                                          Carraway-cabbage-kimchi stir fry

          Heat 2 tblsp. olive oil in a12 inch pan with a lid and fry ½ large onion thinly sliced for 3 minutes. Add 5 cups coarsely shredded green cabbage, ½ tsp. salt, ¾ tsp. carraway seed and stir fry for 10 minutes on medium high heat. Stir in ¼ cup water, 2 tblsp. white vinegar, cover and cook on medium heat for 8 minutes. Stir in ¼ cup chopped kimchi with 3 tblsp. kimchi liquid and cook for another 4 minutes until most of the liquid is absorbed. Serve warm.

          It is too early for fresh rhubarb, but this easy dessert evolved from the unlikely combination of some frozen rhubarb in my freezer and some apple butter in the refrigerator. 

                                                   Rhubarb galette

          Partially thaw 2 cups frozen rhubarb or rinse fresh rhubarb and cut into 1-inch pieces.  Unroll Crescent solid sheet dough from the deli on an 8x11 inch sheet pan. Lightly score a ½ inch edge all around and spread ¾ cup apple butter inside the margins. Toss the rhubarb with ½ cup sugar mixed with 2 tblsp. cornstarch and ½ tsp. nutmeg and spread evenly over the apple butter. Bake 20-30 minutes in a 375-degree preheated oven until the sugar is melted and the rhubarb has become soft. Serve warm or at room temperature.

          Extended family gatherings are an opportunity to enjoy company and an opportunity for everyone to discover new tastes.  Great Aunt Matilda just might find kimchi in her cabbage an adventure to talk about the following week.

 

   (I. Winicov Harrington lives in coastal Maine and is the author of “How to Eat Healthy and Well for Less than $5.00 a Day:” and “Uncharted Journey from Riga”; website: www.winicov-harrington.com)

 

 

 

 

SOUPS FROM AROUND THE WORLD

 

                                Soups from around the world

           Nature has exceeded itself by entertaining us during the last couple of weeks with ice storms, Nor’easters and even an eclipse. Except for the brief solar event on Monday, staying indoors has been advisable for many of us. 

Those of us lucky to have generators, during the lengthy electrical and internet outages, were drawn to our kitchens to create something warm and comforting as we watched trees and bushes struggle under the weight of snow and ice. Soups, originating in different parts of the world, are especially adaptable to improvisation and provide a wide variety of tastes.

          Minestrone is one such soup which can be assembled with a variety of ingredients from pantry and refrigerator.  This hearty soup has its origins in Italy, where ancient Romans appreciated the healthy addition of vegetables to porridge like soups as noted by an early cookbook from 30 AD.  Minestrone has many variations but mostly consists of broth cooked with vegetables on hand, legumes, and pasta.  A piece of Parmigiano Reggiano rind included in the cooking gives the soup a deeper rich flavor.

                                                           Minestrone

          In a large pot heat 2 tblsp. olive oil and sauté 1 large, chopped onion for 5 minutes, stir in 3 chopped garlic cloves and cook for another minute. Stir in the spices: ½ tsp. oregano, ½ tsp. thyme, 1 bay leaf, 6 cloves, ½ tsp. lemon pepper, 1 tsp. salt, 1/8 tsp red pepper flakes.  Add 4 cups chicken broth, 1 cup water, 1 (14.5 oz.) can diced tomatoes, 2 chopped celery stalks, 2 tblsp. tomato paste and a 2x3 inch piece of Parmigiano Reggiano rind. Bring to boil and simmer for 30 minutes.

          Add the vegetables: 1 large, diced potato, 1 large, diced carrot, 1 cup frozen lima beans or 1 can drained garbanzo peas and ½ large zucchini, diced. Cook for 20 minutes and then add ¾ cups small pasta and continue to cook for 10 minutes. Adjust with salt and pepper and if needed with some water. Stir in 1-2 tblsp. lemon juice and serve with shredded Parmigiano Reggiano.

          My next choice was a deeply satisfying Albondigas soup, originally from Spain and introduced in Mexico by the conquistadors. This meatball soup is now known widely a “Mexican soul food” and was adapted from “Mexican Cooking” by Elena Zelayeta.

                                                      Sopa de Albondigas

          Prepare the meatballs by combining ½ lb. ground beef with ½ lb. ground pork, 1 tblsp. Worcestershire sauce, 2 tblsp. raw rice, 1 ½ tsp. salt, ¼ tsp. pepper, 1 tbslp. chopped mint leaves and 1 slightly beaten egg. Mix all well together and roll into 1-inch balls.

          In a large pot heat 1 tblsp. olive oil and wilt, 1 chopped onion and 1 minced garlic clove. Stir in 3 quarts beef stock, 4 oz. tomato paste, 1 chopped carrot, 1 chopped parsnip and ½ cup frozen lima beans.  Bring to boil, cook for 5 minutes and add the meatballs a few at a time. Cover and cook on medium heat for 30 minutes. Stir in 1 cup frozen peas, 2/3 cup frozen corn, cook for additional five minutes, and serve hot.

          The third soup explores Japanese Dashi (seaweed) soup base with such interesting and colorful additions of shrimp, mushrooms, vegetables, and Raman noodles. If seaweed and bonito flakes are not at hand, vegetable broth can be substituted and will still have some of the oriental flavoring of the soup.

                                              Shrimp Dashi with mushrooms.

          Pour boiling water over 5 dried shitake and 4 wood ear mushrooms and allow to soak for 30 minutes. Remove mushrooms and chop. Strain liquid through paper towel lined sieve and set liquid and mushrooms aside.

          In a large pot add 6 cups cold water to 3 sheets Kombu seaweed, bring to boil and cook for 5 minutes.  Stir in a handful of bonito flakes and cook for 5 minutes. Remove Kombu and cut into bite size pieces. Strain out the bonito flakes from the liquid, discard and return the liquid to the pot. Stir in 1 tsp. minced fresh ginger.

          Add mushrooms with liquid to the soup. In a small bowl stir 2 tblsp. miso paste in a mix of 1 ½ tblsp. rice vinegar, 1 ½ tblsp. mirin, 2 tblsp. soy sauce and add to the soup.  Add 4-6 oz. broken Raman noodles and cook for 5 minutes. Then add the bite sized Kombu, 1 cup halved snap peas and ¼ cup carrot strips and cook for additional 3 minutes. Stir in 6 oz thawed medium shrimp and 2-3 sliced scallions, heat through and serve in shallow bowls.

          Soups are such a tasty way to travel the world from your own kitchen.

    (I. Winicov Harrington lives in coastal Maine and is the author of “How to Eat Healthy and Well for Less than $5.00 a Day:” and “Uncharted Journey from Riga”; website: www.winicov-harrington.com)

 

 

 

 

SPRING INTO EASTER

 

                                                 Spring into Easter

           Last week it was tempting to paraphrase Gilbert and Sullivan: “The snowflakes that fall in the spring, Tra la, have nothing to do with the spring”. A relatively mild early March had lulled us hoping for an early spring only to remind us, the week before Easter, of our northern location. However, the vase of forced forsythia branches on our table inspire me to think of foods for the season.

          Hot Cross Buns on grocery shelves are a reminder of the rich heritage of various buns from the British Isles. Fans of Jane Austen and other writers from the 19^th century will recognize such names as currant buns, Bath buns and Sally Lunn. These are all rich yeast dough buns served for breakfast, tea or as a snack, varying only in size and inclusions like currants, raisins, candied citron, and spices. Here is my relatively straightforward recipe for currant buns. This recipe uses a stand-mixer, but hand kneading will give equally tasty results.

                                        Currant buns with apricot glaze

          Dissolve 1 tsp. sugar in ½ cup lukewarm water and stir in 1 package active dry yeast. It should be frothy and doubled in volume in about 10 minutes.

          In the meantime, melt ¼ cup unsalted butter in a small pot, stir in ½ cup sugar, ½ tsp. salt, ¼ tsp. nutmeg and ¾ cups milk. Heat all to lukewarm making sure the sugar is completely dissolved.

          Turn butter and milk mixture into the large mixer bowl, stir in the frothy yeast mixture and 2 fork beaten eggs. On a low setting incorporate 1 cup of all purpose flour, switch to a dough hook and add 3 more cups of flour. When flour is fully incorporated set the mixer on #2 setting and knead for 10 minutes. Scrape dough into a well-greased large bowl, turn, cover bowl with a towel and allow to rise in a warm place for 45 minutes to 1 hour.

          Plump 2/3 cup of dried currants in a small bowl with some boiling water for 20 minutes. Drain currants and pat dry.

          Slightly beat down the risen dough and turn out on a well-floured board. Flatten out to about 12x10 inch shape and sprinkle the currants all over the surface. Fold the dough over and knead with a bit of additional flour to distribute the currants. Form a 12-inch log, cut it into 12 pieces and roll each one to form a ball. Place the balls on a well-greased pan about two inches apart. Cover with a towel and allow to rise again for 30 minutes. Bake in a 400-degree preheated oven for 15 minutes.

          For glaze melt 2 tblsp. apricot jam with 1 tblsp. water in small dish. Set your rack on top of a piece of wax paper for the baked buns to catch excess glaze. Baste the still warm buns with melted jam. Enjoy warm or at room temperature with a bit of butter.

           Easter dinner calls for a traditional ham which you can bake for several hours with a glaze or heat a wrapped ready-cooked ham for a shorter time. Both are well complemented by fried apples, requiring only a pan, ½ cup butter, 1/3 cup sugar, 1 tblsp. cinnamon and 4 Fuji or Pink lady apples sliced and cored, cooked in 5-7 minutes just before serving.

          Asparagus, the traditional Easter vegetable, will get a new treatment this year at our house and will introduce the dinner as an elegant asparagus soup. This recipe is adapted from Jacqueline Hériteau “A Feast of Soups”.

                                              Cream of asparagus soup

          Combine ½ cup sour cream with 1 cup heavy cream in a small bowl and set aside at room temperature.

          Snap tough ends off 1 lb. asparagus, wash and cut the green parts in 2-inch pieces. Set aside a few spear tips for garnish. In a 3-quart pot melt 2 tbslp. butter on low heat, stir in 2 tblsp. flour to make a roux and slowly stir in 1 cup of chicken broth to make a thick sauce. Stir in 3 additional cups of chicken broth, bring to boil, add the asparagus, and cook for 15 minutes. Cool slightly and puree in a blender. Return soup to pot, stir in ½ tsp. lemon pepper, 1/8 tsp. mace and 1 cup milk. Heat to boiling, stir in the cream and heat again to just before boiling. Serve hot garnished with asparagus tips or chopped chives.

          According to Doug Larson:” Spring is when you feel like whistling even with a shoe full of slush”.

    (I. Winicov Harrington lives in coastal Maine and is the author of “How to Eat Healthy and Well for Less than $5.00 a Day:” and “Uncharted Journey from Riga”; website: www.winicov-harrington.com)