SEASONAL MENUS-BUTTERFLIED LEG OF LAMB

 

                                                Seasonal menus

           Seasonal food is slowly fading as a concept with international food flooding our supermarkets regardless of season. Years ago, I would take a trip to New York for a night at the theatre with an afternoon feast at Lindy’s to get not only their famous cheesecake but also a special treat a dish of fresh strawberries in February. Now every supermarket is willing to sell me strawberries at any time of the year.

          In Germany, seasonal food is still epitomized by ‘Spargelzeit’, the national obsession with white asparagus available only in April and May. Because of it’s brief season fresh asparagus is still a harbinger of spring even in Maine. A less familiar harbinger of spring is lamb. It has been historically associated with a variety of dishes for spring festivals and although it is used extensively in Mediterranean dishes has not gained the same popularity in USA. Recent appearance of a variety of lamb cuts in our supermarkets have been a welcome addition to my seasonal menus.

                                           Butterflied Greek leg of lamb

          A 6 lb. leg of lamb may seem formidable to cook for only 4 people but fortunately the butterflied cut with the bone removed is a more moderate 3.5 lb. as advertised and is much easier to handle. A note of caution, check the actual weight of the package for cooking time since mine arrived at only 2.5 lb.

          For tender flavorful slices of lamb, the meat needs to be marinated overnight, seared and quickly cooked to rare or medium rare, or it will get tough unless braised in a stew.

Marinade: 1/3 cup fresh lemon juice, zest of 1 lemon, 3 large garlic cloves minced, 2 tsp. salt, 1 tsp. black pepper, 1 tbsp. dried oregano, 2 fresh rosemary sprigs, ½ cup olive oil.  Cut 1 pkg. butterflied leg of lamb in half for easier handling and marinate the meat overnight in the refrigerator in a plastic bag, massaging the bag for the marinade to reach all surfaces.

          Remove the bag from refrigerator and allow 1 hour at room temperature before cooking. Set a large pan on high heat, spray with olive oil and sear meat for 2-3 minutes on each side. Place pieces on a rack or a ridged sheet pan and bake in the oven pre-heated to 350 degrees for 21 minutes for medium rare (meat thermometer to 135 degrees). Remove from oven, tent with aluminum foil for 10 minutes before slicing. Garnish with fresh basil and rosemary. Serve with Pistachio Pilaf and asparagus Hollandaise. Leftovers make wonderful sandwiches on pita or other bread with Tzatziki sauce and greens.

                                                           Pistachio pilaf

          Rinse basmati rice in 3 changes of water and set aside. Melt 2 tbsp. butter in a medium pot and sauté ½ large onion finely chopped and 1 diced carrot for 5 minutes. Stir in the rice and coat with the vegetables then ½ cup white wine and cook for 1 minute. Add 2 ¼ cups chicken broth, ¼ cup dried currants, 1 bay leaf, ½ tsp. saffron and 2-3 strips lemon zest. Bring to boil, cover and simmer covered for 20 minutes. Uncover, stir in 1 tbsp. butter and ½ cup halved pistachios. Heat for additional couple of minutes, remove bay leaf and serve warm. Can be reheated in microwave.

                                           Blackberry dumplings

          Easy colorful fruity desserts are a boon to the home cook in any seson. These dumplings are adapted from “Modern Encyclopedia of Cooking” by Meta Givens (1955), who got it from an American Indian woman, dating before the time of home ovens.

          Place 1 qt. washed and drained blackberries in a 3 qt. pot. Stir in ½ cup sugar, ¼ cup water, 1 tbsp. fresh lemon juice, small pinch of salt and grated zest of 1 lemon. Cover and simmer for 3 minutes.

          Dumplings. Sift together in a small bowl: 1 cup flour 1 ½ tbsp. sugar, ¼ tsp. salt and 1 ½ tsp. baking powder. Using 2 knives cut in 1 ½ tbsp. cold butter until size of rice. Stir in vigorously ½ cup plus 1 tbsp milk. Drop dumplings from a heaping tsp. into the simmering berries. Cover tightly and simmer over low heat for 20 minutes. Serve dumplings in individual dishes with berries and sauce on top.

(I. Winicov Harrington lives in coastal Maine and is the author of “How to Eat Healthy and Well for Less than $5.00 a Day…”and “Uncharted Journey from Riga”; website: www.winicov-harrington.com)

 

 

AHI TUNA, ARTICHOKES AND CARROT SOUP

 

                        Ahi tuna, artichokes and carrot soup

 

          Last week’s “pink moon” of April signifies our annual transition to spring, a season of new growth and spiritual renewal. The first April full moon according to the lunar calendar also determines the annual dates for Passover and Easter Sunday. And according to one of my Jewish friends, this year’s coincidence of April’s Fool Day with Passover occurs every 19 years.

          Regardless of cherry trees blossoming in DC and lovely spring flowers south of New England, our outdoors remains bleak, livened up only by pussy willows and witch hazel. But three valiant, blue Siberian irises at our front walk are barely showing color next to some snowdrops and tell me to be patient.

          Ample green bunches of asparagus acclaim spring in our markets.  Artichokes may seem somewhat exotic in Maine, but having lived for some time out west, I look at them also as harbingers of spring being the immature flower bud of a thistle plant. A couple of firm artichokes from the supermarket and an Italian stuffed artichoke recipe from my old friend Betty Travaglini made for a delicious appetizer. Edible parts of the artichoke are the bottom and the fleshy part of the leaves which you scrape with your teeth. The “choke” in the center is discarded after cooking in mature artichokes.

                                              Stuffed artichokes

          Set up a small bowl with ½ cup of lemon juice for dipping the trimmed artichoke, since any cut surfaces will oxidize quickly. Trim the stem of each artichoke, remove any damaged and dried leaves near the bottom and using scissors pry slightly each leaf and cut away the sharp leaf tips and the top. Do not try to remove the “choke”. Dip all cut surfaces in lemon juice.

          For each artichoke mix the stuffing: ¼ cup Italian flavored bread crumbs, ¼ cup finely grated Parmesan, 2 tbsp. finely chopped Italian parsley and ½ tsp. oregano. Pry the leaves slightly apart and stuff with stuffing. Pour a couple of inches of water in a deep pot and set each artichoke upright in a holder for steaming. Sprinkle with kosher salt, spray with a bit of olive oil and pour the ‘dipping lemon juice’ over each artichoke. Bring pot to boil, cover tightly and steam on medium heat for 1 hour. Serve with melted butter, dipping leaves as you eat the soft parts and stuffing.

                                           Sesame Ahi tuna steak

          Yellowfin tuna has long been a staple in sushi preparations because of its meaty firm texture, bright red color and mild flavor that adapts well to a marinade. It also makes excellent steak when quick seared, leaving the bright interior rare.

          Marinade: ¼ cup light soy sauce, 1 tbsp. olive oil and 1 tsp. sesame oil, 2 tbsp. fresh lemon juice, 1 minced garlic clove, 1-inch fresh ginger peeled and shredded and ½ tsp. lemon pepper. Marinate two 4 oz, tuna steaks for 30 minutes. Blot dry.

          Heat 2 tbsp. grapeseed or peanut oil to shimmer and fry for 60-90 seconds on each side. Place a small pat of butter on tuna when frying on the second side. Serve sliced and sprinkled with sesame seeds. Serve with brown rice and buttered string beans with toasted slivered almonds.

                                                  Creole carrot soup

          This is a brightly colored lighter version of potato-leek soup, suitable for spring lunches or dinner. Prepare coarsely chopped: 2 medium onions, 2 potatoes, 2 garlic cloves, 4 large carrots, and 2 celery stalks with leaves. Place in a pot with 3 cups chicken broth, 2 cups water, 1 tsp. salt ½ tsp. lemon pepper, 2 tsp. grated ginger, 1 tsp. Creole seasoning.  Bring to boil and cook for 30-40 minutes. Cool slightly and purée in a blender. Return to pot, stir in 2 tbsp. white wine vinegar, bring to boil, stir in ½ cup heavy cream and heat without boiling. Serve hot with slivered almonds on top.

          Despite the lingering cold and rain, I’m tempted to agree with Samuel Johnson that: “April is a moment of joy for those who have survived the winter.”

 (I. Winicov Harrington lives in coastal Maine and is the author of “How to Eat Healthy and Well for Less than $5.00 a Day…”and “Uncharted Journey from Riga”; website: www.winicov-harrington.com)

 

 

HAPPY SPRING!

Happy spring!

           Spring has arrived as I admire the bright blue and yellow primroses nestled in a blue and white container on my kitchen table. Unfortunately, the window behind them is filled with swirling snowflakes, our bane for this year’s March. The snowdrops, just barely peaking out their green shoots near my front walk, must be considering a judicious retreat until another day. We yearn for spring but living in Maine such yearning becomes a character-building exercise at this time of the year.

          Cooking and warm food becomes a cook’s way to mark time until the outdoors comes up with its yearly promise.

 

Creamy chicken pot/soup

          This recipe was adapted from Food and Wine.  Chop 2 carrots, 1 medium onion and thinly slice 2 celery stalks. Melt 2tbsp. butter in a large pot, whisk in 2 tbsp flour and cook with stirring on medium heat for 2-3 minutes until golden. Add the vegetables, ½ tsp. kosher salt and stir for 5-7 minutes on medium high heat. Stir in 2 thinly sliced large garlic cloves, 1 tsp. thyme leaves, ½ tsp. lemon pepper and ¼ cup chopped sundried tomatoes. Stir for 2 minutes, add ¾ cup dry white wine and cook to reduce to thick sauce.

          Add 4 cups low sodium chicken broth, 1 peeled diced potato and 1 tbsp. Dijon mustard. Bring to boil and simmer for 20 minutes. Stir in 1/3 cup frozen peas, 1/3 cup frozen corn and 1 ½ cups shredded cooked chicken meat and continue to cook for 5 minutes. Gently stir in ½ cup heavy cream and heat through without boiling. Serve in shallow bowls garnished with chopped parsley. Soup can be reheated

 

                           Baked chicken thighs with lentils and shitake

          This recipe is for a one pot meal if you have an oven proof pan with a lid, or individual steps can be carried out in a pan and pot and assembled in a baking dish with a cover. Rinse and cook 1 cup lentils for 20 minutes covered with water, ½ tsp. kosher salt and 4 cloves. Set aside. In a small bowl mix spice: 1 tbsp. smoked paprika, ½ tsp. turmeric, 1 tbsp. coriander, 2 tsp. cumin and ¼ tsp. cinnamon. Sauté 5 oz. sliced fresh shitake in 2 tbsp. butter, ½ tsp. salt for 5 minutes and stir in 1 tbsp. lemon juice and set aside.

          Wipe down 4 chicken thighs with skin and bone, rub with kosher salt and sprinkle with 1/3 of the spice mix, patting to adhere. Put skin side down in a cold pan with 3 tbsp. olive oil and cook on medium high for 15 minutes to brown the chicken. Set aside and pour off most of the fat.

In the same pan sauté ½ large chopped red onion for 5 minutes, stir in 5 chopped garlic cloves, ¼ tsp. red pepper flakes and 2 tbsp. tomato paste and cook with stirring for 2 minutes. Add 2 diced carrots and parsnips each, ½ tsp. kosher salt, 2 tbsp. lemon juice and ½ cup white wine. Cook for 3 minutes, add lentils with broth, 1 bay leaf, ½ cup water, the shitake and cook for 5 minutes. Pour in casserole, place chicken on top, cover tightly and bake at 375 degrees for 15 minutes. Uncover and continue to bake for 30 minutes more. Serve garnished with parsley.

Quesadillas are versatile for both lunch and dinner and can be easily assembled and cooked from ingredients in a well-stocked pantry and freezer.

                                         Black bean and ham quesadillas

Combine together: ½ cup diced ham, ¾ cups frozen corn kernels, 1 (15oz) can black beans drained and rinsed, ½ cup finely chopped onion, 1 minced garlic clove, 1/3 cup chopped parsley, 1 ½ cups shredded cheddar or Jack cheese, ½ packet low salt Taco seasoning mix. Add ¼ cup sour cream or mayonnaise and mix thoroughly.

Spread a generous ¾ cup of the filling on half of a 10-inch flour tortilla, fold over the other half and press down to seal. Fry quesadillas in batches in 2 tbsp. olive oil on medium heat for 2-3 minutes to a side. Cut tortillas in wedges and serve with additional sour cream topped with some of the toasted corn that escapes during frying and basil or parsley leaves for garnish.

We may not be able to compete with Mark Twain who was claimed to have said “In spring I have counted 136 different kinds of weather in 24 hours”, but then we are still counting.

(I. Winicov Harrington lives in coastal Maine and is the author of “How to Eat Healthy and Well for Less than $5.00 a Day…”and “Uncharted Journey from Riga”; website: www.winicov-harrington.com)