Wednesday, January 16, 2019

FORAGING IN MY KITCHEN





Foraging in my Kitchen

          Keeping New Year’s resolutions can be a challenge! In my last column, the month of January was to be “Boxing Day Re-Imagined”, as a means of using accumulated items in the kitchen, pantry and freezer. Half-way through the month, foraging in my kitchen for meals as a means for fulfilling Ben Franklin’s dictum “Waste not – want not”, has become quite interesting.
          It is embarrassing to admit to a supper of hotdogs on a roll with a dab of habanero salsa and sauerkraut (it was actually tasty), even if the Maine blueberry pie from berries in the freezer made up for it very nicely. Faced with a collection of vegetables and a half a pound of frozen hamburger I fortunately recalled the German version of a meatball soup my mother made years ago and we still serve at our table.
          Meatball soup does not have a very gastronomic ring, yet it’s appeal must be widespread as it is found in different cuisines with somewhat different ingredients and usually a more appealing name. Mexican ‘albondingas soup’ has meatballs with beef or turkey and rice.  Italians call it ‘the wedding soup’ with beef meatballs, escarole and egg/ cheese ribbons in the soup. Germans have a hearty version with lots of vegetables and beef meatballs, which they call by different names: Klops soupe or Eintopt or my favorite ‘Frikadellen Suppe. Actually the word Frikadellen means meat patties and was the origin of our today’s hamburger.
                                      Frikadellen Suppe
          It is possible to cook the meatballs directly in the soup, but baking the meatballs briefly first, browns the meat slightly and improves the flavor of the soup.
Meatballs. Line a cookie sheet with aluminum foil and spray lightly with baking spray. In a small bowl soak ¼ cup fine bread crumbs with 3 tablespoons milk and 1 beaten egg, 1 tblsp. Worcestershire sauce, 1 tsp. salt, ¼ tsp. pepper, 1 tsp. onion powder. Mix thoroughly with ½ lb. of lean ground beef and roll the mix with your hands in 1 inch balls. Place on the baking sheet well separated and bake at 375 degrees for 20 minutes. Soup.  Sauté 1 chopped onion and 2 chopped celery stalks with leaves in 1 tblsp. olive oil in a 4 quart pot for 5 minutes, stir in 3 chopped garlic cloves and sauté for an additional minute. Add: 4 cups beef broth, 3 cups water, 1 cup tomato juice, a bay leaf, 1 tsp. thyme, 7 cloves, ¼ tsp. red pepper flakes, 1 tsp. salt, the rind of Parmegiano-Regano (optional)  and bring to boil. Add diced 3 small parsnips, 1 large potato, 2 large carrots, 2 cups coarsely shredded cabbage and cook on medium heat for 20 minutes. Add 1 cup frozen peas, 1/3 cup chopped fresh parsley, 2 tblsp. balsamic vinegar and the meatballs, heat for 5 minutes, if needed add a bit more water, adjust seasonings and serve. Soup flavor improves with reheating.
          Local farmer’s market apples were wonderful last year, but several months cool storage takes toll on the crispness of even the best. They still make wonderful baked apples, which can be served any time of the day.
                             Raisin-Pecan Stuffed Baked Apples.
          Wash and carefully core 4-5 large apples from the blossom end and place in an 8x8x2 inch baking dish. Place the cored apples in the baking dish and fill them with chopped pecans and raisins, ½ tsp. sugar and pour over each 2 tsp. apple juice or cider. Pour ½ cup cider or juice in the bottom of the pan and bake in a 375 degree oven for 50 minutes. The apples should be soft and just starting to break out of the skin on the top. Serve plain warm or cold, with or without ice cream.
          Taking inventory and having a sale is a common practice for business at this time of the year. A cook’s kitchen is the cook’s business, so edible inventory may be both a benefit and a challenge.
                            
(I. Winicov Harrington lives in coastal Maine and is the author of “How to Eat Healthy and Well for Less than $5.00 a Day: the Smart-Frugal Food Plan”; website: www.winicov-harrington.com)



Saturday, January 5, 2019

BOXING DAY RE-IMAGINED




Boxing Day – Re-imagined

          Regardless of how “cool” or cynical you have become in all the years past, the New Year simply insinuates in you a desire for new beginnings.  It whispers the possibility of “getting it right” this time by tempting us with “resolutions” for the New Year, even if their lifetime in the past has been embarrassingly limited.
          The overindulgence of Christmas celebrations since Middle Ages have always included in the United Kingdom the day after Christmas as a day for giving time-off and cash or material goods to servants as special compensation for the year and the excess of effort to create such extravagant feasts. Pepy’s Diary in 1663 refers to “boys’ box against Christmas” also as general charitable contribution. Around 1830’s this became known as Boxing Day, regarding all such contributions and is now is a National Holiday in Britain and Ireland.
          A necessary by-product of the servant’s day-off was boxing of leftover food from Christmas to be consumed by everyone the day after, since the cook did not cook and there was no one around to serve. For most of us the days of having a cook and servants are gone, but the concept has definite merit and I’m proposing to redefine and extend it beyond Boxing Day.
          Fortunately, the freezer will keep extra portions of lasagna and chili from visiting family meals, for ready use in the New Year. Our Swedish glogg and roast beef did not last past January 1. However, with all the holiday planning and shopping our pantry, refrigerator and freezer have accumulated an assortment of packages, cans and bottles that will require at least a month of inventive cooking to clear the shelves. Thus evolved my NEW Boxing Day/Month concept. Except for perishable fruit, vegetable and dairy products from the store, old Ben Franklin’s dictum “Waste not, want not” will rule in the kitchen.
                             Tangy Butternut Squash Bisque
          Cut butternut squash in half lengthwise, scoop out the seeds and bake face down in a pan at 400 degrees for 45 minutes, until easily pierced with a fork. When cool, scoop out the flesh and discard the skin. There should be 2 ½ to 3 cups of squash. Sauté 1 chopped medium onion and a stalk of celery in 2 tblsp. butter in a 3-4 quart pot for 5 minutes, stir in 2/3 cup dry white wine, ¼ tsp. ground cumin, 1 tsp. chopped fresh ginger, ¼ tsp. nutmeg, ½ tsp. red pepper flakes, ¼ tsp. cinnamon, 1 tsp. turmeric, 1 tsp. salt, pepper to taste, 3 cups chicken broth, the broken up squash flesh and 2 medium tart apples, peeled, cored and sliced. Bring to boil and cook for 20 minutes, add ½ cup chopped parsley and cook for an additional 5 minutes. When cool, puree in a blender and adjust seasoning with salt and pepper. If soup seems too thick, dilute with a bit of water. Reheat to serve garnished with sour cream or crême fraiche and chopped chives.
                             Cranberry Bread
          It seems like there is always a partial bag of cranberries left in the refrigerator at this time of the year and cranberry bread is a perfect solution for their use. Grease an 8x4x2 ½ in. loaf pan. Sift 1 ¾ cups all-purpose flour with 2 ½  tsp. baking powder, ¼ tsp. baking soda, ¾ tsp. salt. With a mixer cream 1/3 cup butter with ¾ cups sugar until fluffy. Add 2 eggs, one at a time, and 1 tblsp. cream. Add flour mixture in 4 portions, beating well after each addition. Stir in 1 ½ cups fresh cranberries and ½ cup chopped pecans. Turn batter in prepared pan and bake in a 350 degree preheated oven for 50 minutes or until a toothpick inserted in the middle comes out clean. Turn out from cake pan on a cake rack and cool before slicing. Unsliced loaf freezes well and will keep for several months frozen.
          Boxing Day has changed significantly in modern times. Sports dominate in many places, though the traditional fox hunt has been held without “The Fox” since 2004. Questionably, in absence of servants and giving, it has also become one of the biggest shopping days of the year!

(I. Winicov Harrington lives in coastal Maine and is the author of “How to Eat Healthy and Well for Less than $5.00 a Day: the Smart-Frugal Food Plan”; website: www.winicov-harrington.com)