FRESH SUMMER FLAVORS

 

                                        Fresh summer flavors

          Our rainy summer has yielded amazingly green lawns this August, lush gardens well populated with slugs. and bountiful crops of kale and Swiss chard.  Corn, tomatoes and even peppers and summer squash sadly have lacked the usual heat of summer and are late in ripening. The sweet full flavor of wild blueberries and tomatoes has been noticeably reduced this year due to our cloudy days. But that is the fate of all farmers and gardeners, the vagaries of seasonal crops we cherish. However, it has been a banner year for wild mushrooms.

          Looking at the positive side of this year’s harvest, the seasonal cook invariably seeks colorful ways to present fresh flavors in interesting combinations. 

                                       Ginger-shrimp soup with kale and corn

          Heat 2 tblsp. olive oil in a 3 qt. pot and stir fry 1 medium chopped onion, 2 chopped garlic cloves and 4 cups de-ribbed and torn washed kale 3-4 minutes. Stir in juice of ½ lemon, 1 ½ tsp. finely chopped ginger, 4 cups vegetable broth, 2 cups water, ½ tsp. salt, ¼ tsp. lemon pepper, 1 tblsp. fish sauce.  Bring to boil and simmer for 12-14 minutes.  Stir in a dozen large shrimp, cleaned and cut into bite size pieces. Stir in fresh corn cut from 2 cobs and cook until shrimp turn opaque. Remove from heat, let sit for 5 minutes before serving garnished with chopped chives.

          The rains have given a bumper crop of mushrooms this year. Many farmer’s markets are a source of wild mushrooms in summer and the colorful chanterelles were a real pleasure to cook. This recipe would also taste delicious with shitake or oyster mushrooms, though less colorful in appearance.

                                              Chanterelles in cream sauce

          Brush or wipe with a damp paper towel 1-quart or slightly more of fresh mushrooms.  Discard tough stems and cut into bite size pieces. Heat 1 tblsp. olive oil and 2 tblsp. unsalted butter in a large pan and when sizzling add mushrooms and one thinly sliced large shallot. Sauté for 5 minutes. Add 1/3 cup julienned sundried tomatoes, juice of ½ large lemon, ½ tsp. lemon pepper and ½ cup chicken broth. Cook to reduce liquid to ½ volume, stir in 1/3 cup heavy cream and heat without boiling. Serve over pasta garnished with fresh basil leaves.

 

                                                 Black plum clafoutis

          Preheat the oven to 350 degrees.  Melt 4 tblsp. unsalted butter in a 10-inch-deep dish pie or quiche pan and swirl the butter to coat the sides of the pan. Wash and pit 4 large black plums, cut each half in 4 slices, toss with ¼ cup sugar, and distribute the fruit evenly on the bottom of the buttered pan.

          In a blender or with a hand mixer in a bowl combine: 3 eggs, 1/3 cup sugar, 1 cup milk, 1 tsp. vanilla extract, 1 tsp. lemon extract, ½ tsp. salt and ¾ cups flour. Do not overmix, but when blended pour over the plums. Sprinkle with nutmeg and bake for 40-45 minutes until puffed, slightly browned and a toothpick inserted in the middle comes out clean. Serve warm in wedges with a dusting of powdered sugar if desired.

          My annual wild blueberry flat was a bit of disappointment in flavor this year for eating them fresh. However, the berries still made excellent pies, muffins and cooked with a bit of sugar and lemon juice made a delicious topping for lemon pudding. Nothing like a bit of kitchen magic to improve any crop.

       (I. Winicov Harrington lives in coastal Maine and is the author of “How to Eat Healthy and Well for Less than $5.00 a Day: The Smart-Frugal Food Plan”; website: www.winicov-harrington.com)

 

 

 

ZUCCHINI, BANE OR BLESSING?

 

                            Zucchini, bane or blessing?

           The full bloom of an August Garden or farm market produce is bound to impress with its bounty of zucchini. First time unsuspecting gardeners will tell you horror stories of their baseball bat size zucchini that took over the garden during their week of vacation. Impressive as such zucchini specimens are, they are quite watery and not the choice ingredient for culinary delights.

          Zucchini or courgette, as named on some restaurant menus, have the best flavor when picked at the 6–8-inch stage, with immature seeds and dense flesh. These vitamin C and folate rich vegetables are only 33 calories for a medium zucchini and are favored by dieters. Fortunately, zucchini can be enjoyed raw as well as cooked. Their own delicate flavor pairs well with tomatoes, onion, garlic, spices and a variety of cheeses. Raw zucchini is a flavorful addition to a raw vegetable platter or salads and shredded it can add interest to appetizers.

                                          Boursin-zucchini canapés

          Grate ½ zucchini coarsely on a box grater and squeeze dry in a paper towel.  Spread 6 pieces of Finn crisp or Swedish crisp bread with garlic and fine herb Boursin. Top with the shredded zucchini and toasted pine nuts. Also makes an excellent accompaniment to gazpacho.

          Pan sautéed or oven roasted zucchini (in a 450-degree oven) makes a quick and easy vegetable side dish requiring only a toss with some olive oil, garlic powder and salt. If you wish to add extra flavor, sprinkle a ¼ cup of freshly grated Parmesan on top. More complex pairings for zucchini are exemplified by ratatouille and vegetable gratins. Zucchini blends well with corn as demonstrated in the Jambalaya recipe below.

                                                 Zucchini-corn jambalaya

          Heat a large pan with 2 tblsp. vegetable oil, add: 1 medium zucchini in ½ inch slices, ½ cup chopped red onion, ½ red pepper, seeded and chopped, 1 chopped garlic clove, ¼ tsp. red pepper flakes (optional), 1 tsp. oregano and salt and pepper to taste. Stir fry for 2 minutes on high heat. Combine 1 tblsp. double strength tomato paste with ¼ cup water and stir in the vegetables continuing to cook for 1 minute. Stir in ¾-1 cup frozen or fresh corn kernels and cook with stirring for 2 minutes. Serve warm or at room temperature.

                                      Zucchini quiche Siciliano

          Mediterranean recipes often feature zucchini, but the blend of other ingredients allow you to discover the different flavors that have been developed in different locales.

          Slice 1 medium zucchini in ¼ inch rounds, place in a single layer on a large pan, spray with olive oil and sprinkle with garlic salt. Broil, turning once, until lightly browned on both sides. Set aside.

          In a large bowl beat together with an electric mixer: 3 large eggs, 1 cup ricotta cheese, ½ tsp. dry mustard, 1 and ½ tsp. Sicilian flavoring, ½ cup Mozzarella, ¼ cup Parmesan cheese and 2/3 cup half and half.

          Line a 10-inch pie plate with pre-made pie dough from the deli case in grocery, fitting it tightly to avoid air pockets. Bake at 450 degrees for 9 minutes. When slightly cooled, assemble the pie. First spread broiled zucchini slices on the bottom, sprinkle with 3 oz. cubed Gruyère, 1/3 cup julienned sundried tomato, a single layer of fresh basil leaves and one Roma tomato thinly sliced. Pour the egg mixture on top, spreading it to cover all the tomato slices. Bake in oven preheated to 375 degrees for 35 minutes, until top is puffy and slightly browned. Serve warm or at room temperature.

          My zucchini recipe repertoire seems endless. It includes breads, both yeast and sweet varieties, fritters, scones, muffins, and Madeleines, classic only in shape as immortalized by Proust. So, despite zucchini’s unfortunate reputation, it looks like it is a ‘blessing’ to cooks in summer.

    (I. Winicov Harrington lives in coastal Maine and is the author of “How to Eat Healthy and Well for Less than $5.00 a Day: the Smart-Frugal Food Plan”; website: www.winicov-harrington.com)