AH RHUBARB!

Ah – Rhubarb!

            Rhubarb seems to be one of those vegetables that has a selective following. Some of us recall munching a rhubarb stalk as children, savoring the first taste of spring.  Admittedly, it tasted better when dipped in a bit of sugar. Others will smile politely as they decline even a piece of rhubarb-dried-cherry pie. Although rhubarb is a vegetable, it’s tart flavor makes it most suitable for various desert preparations combined with sugar and other flavorings.

            Rhubarb is unequivocally tart! It was known in Europe by 17^th century as a cool climate medicinal plant and by 18^th century was grown in England and Scandinavia as a vegetable crop. Only the stalks are edible, since the leaves have such a high level of oxalic acid that it makes them poisonous.

            This year’s cool spring has produced a wonderful crop of rosy rhubarb stalks, that can tempt anyone with their bright flavor. It can be prepared from a simple compote to a crisp and baked in more elaborate pies and coffee cakes.

                                    Rhubarb compote

            The quickest and easiest way to prepare a rhubarb desert is to stew it with a small amount of liquid and sugar until it becomes soft and gives a thick compote.

1)      Place in a pot: 6 large washed and trimmed stalks, cut up in 1 inch pieces, ½ cup water, ¾ cup raisins and 1 star anise seed.

2)      Bring to boil, reduce heat and cook for 10 minutes with occasional stirring. Add 1 cup sugar and continue to cook for another 5 minutes.

3)      Cool, remove star anise and serve in small bowls. For additional flavor and effect top with whipped cream or ice cream.

                             Rhubarb crisp

            This is really a pie without the crust for those of us who need to count our calories. The crisp can also be made with a mix of rhubarb and strawberries or raspberries, but then use an additional tblsp. of cornstarch.

1)      Take the cut-up rhubarb and raisins as in the above recipe and in a bowl toss with ¾ cup sugar in which you have stirred in 1 tblsp. cornstarch and some grated lemon rind. Turn into a buttered pie plate.

2)       Top with crumble: ½ cup flour, ½ cup brown sugar and ½ tsp. cinnamon crumbled with 4 tblsp. cold butter.

3)      Bake at 375 degrees for 35-40 minutes until the mixture is bubbling and top is browned. Serve warm or cold.

Early settlers in the Northeast often folded some rhubarb in coffee cakes or sweet breads. This gives the bread extra moisture in addition to a subtle tart flavor. The following e is a modification from my friend Jean’s family’s recipe.

                                    Rhubarb-yoghurt coffee cake

1)      Pre-heat oven to 350 degrees and butter an 8x8 inch baking dish.

2)      In a small bowl sift together:1 cup flour, ½ tsp. baking soda, ½ tsp. baking powder, ¼ tsp. salt, ½ tsp. cinnamon, ½ tsp. nutmeg.

3)      With an electric mixer beat together in a large bowl: ¼ cup butter, ¾ cup sugar, 2 eggs and grated orange peel.

4)      Add sifted ingredients to the butter mixture, alternately with ½ cup Greek yoghurt.

5)      Toss 1 ½ cups rhubarb cut in ½ inch pieces with 1 tblsp. flour and fold into the batter. Turn into the prepared pan and spread with Topping.

6)      Topping: ½ cup brown sugar,1tsp. ground cardamom crumbled with 2 tblsp. butter and ¼ cup chopped pecans.

7)      Bake at 350 degrees for 40-45 minutes.

This cake freezes well. To make a larger cake, double the amounts and bake in a 9x13 inch pan.

            A rhubarb cake may sound a bit strange the first time you hear of it, but it never fails to please, even those friends with aversions to rhubarb pie. 

(I. Winicov Harrington lives in coastal Maine and is the author of “How to Eat Healthy and Well for Less than $5.00 a Day: the Smart-Frugal Food Plan”; website: www.winicov-harrington.com)