A SAUCY TALE

A Saucy Tale

          Health food advocates and many nutritionists notwithstanding, there is nothing like a good sauce to complement any dish. Free association of the words: food and sauce will always bring me to thoughts of French cooking.

It has been a delight to find a chapter entitled “The Mother Sauces” in a book I’m currently reading. “A Bite-Sized History of France” by Stéphane Hénaut and Jeni Mitchell delineates the evolution of sauces in French cooking from the highly spiced and acidic sauces made with oil in medieval times to the cream, butter and herb versions which started to appear in the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries, designed to enhance the foods, rather than overwhelm them.

 The book has charming asides and historical legends associated with famous chefs, kings and even that rogue diplomat Talleyrand in aiding the evolution of sauces. All of the ‘Mother sauces’ (béchamel, allemande-espagnole and velouté) use a roux as a starter, which is a butter flour mix which thickens the sauce and liquid such as milk or broth to give it volume. Addition of cheese, herbs, wine, cognac and other flavorings result in the infinite variety of gastronomic repertoire. The legendary chef Escoffier added hollandaise and tomato sauce to the ‘Mother sauce’ categories in the 20^th century.

Even without such erudite history, the home cook often enhances the flavor of a dish with quite simple ingredients. Here are two simple and quick recipes, where a sauce can make a mouthwatering improvement on such staples as hamburger and apples. Neither recipe requires the talents of a French chef. 

                   Latvian Gulash

In a large pan quickly brown 1 lb. lean hamburger and set aside. Pour off excess fat and sauté 4 oz. sliced fresh mushrooms with 1 large chopped onion until soft for 5 minutes, stir 1 tblp. Lemon juice. Sprinkle with 2-3 tblsp. flour until coated and stir in 1 cup beef broth. Continue cooking on low heat until thickened. Stir in 1 tsp. salt, ¼ tsp pepper,1 tbsp. Worcerstershire sauce, the reserved meat and cook on low heat for 5-10 minutes. Stir in 2 heaping tblsp. sour cream, heat without boiling and adjust seasoning. Serve over boiled potatoes, pasta or toast for dinner or lunch.

Apples are a staple fruit in the winter and are delicious in pies, muffins, coffee cakes and a variety of pastries. The mouthwatering French recipe of classic Tarte Tatin, a carmelized upside down apple cake, gets most of it’s flavor essentially from the fried apples. It is possible to get a similar flavor much more expediently and without the cake.

                   Cardamom Sauced Apples

Peel, core and quarter 3 Granny Smith or other baking apples. Slice each quarter in 3-4 slices. In a large sauce pan melt 2-3 tblsp. unsalted butter and fry the apple slices on medium heat for 5-7 minutes, turning occasionally until apples start to brown. Stir in 2 tblsp. lemon juice, ¼ cup lightly packed brown sugar, ½ tsp. cinnamon, ½ tsp. ground cardamom and ½ cup of quartered pecans. Cook over low heat for a couple of minutes until sugar is melted. Stir in ½ cup heavy cream and cook until blended and sauce is thick. Serve warm in small bowls with a scoop of ice cream.

However, other sauces can be challenging once you step out of the comfort zone created by the roux-based sauces. Bernaise being a common example in French cooking. In fact, our two sons complained about most meat being served with it on a trip to France many year ago. To this cook, it is still a major project to whisk 5 beaten egg yolks with melted butter and a shallot-tarragon vinegar reduction over low heat without it curdling..

 (I. Winicov Harrington lives in coastal Maine and is the author of “How to Eat Healthy and Well for Less than $5.00 a Day: the Smart-Frugal Food Plan”; website: www.winicov-harrington.com)