Sunday, October 21, 2018

FALL SOUPS


Fall Soups

          “When the frost is on the punkin and the fodder’s in the shock” starts the poem by James Whitcomb Riley and after more than a hundred years still describes this special time of the year. The New England fall colors have the lassitude of accomplishment on a sunny day, even if most of us are removed from the autumnal farm chores of gathering and storing crops and provisions for the winter to come.
          The crisp sunny days come with their own changes in our appetites with appreciation of a heartier warm fare. A warm and filling soup is one of those dishes that is welcome this time of the year and can serve as a meal for either lunch or supper.  In addition, a pot of soup once made, can be reheated or frozen for multiple meals thus saving the cook time in the kitchen.
          Fall soups can be creamy or chunky, but all tend to be heartier than our summer fare. Creamy squash, carrot or potato soups are a treat with our fall vegetables. Pumpkin is so abundant this time of the year that we tend focus on it’s uses for decorations and pumpkin pie, but it too can be made into a delicious soup. While canned pumpkin is widely available, baked pumpkin retains a better color for culinary uses. The smaller pie pumpkins are best for this. Simply wash the pumpkin, cut in half, remove the seeds and bake as you would squash in a pan cut side down at 400 degrees for 1 hour. Scoop out the flesh and mash it for pie or use chunks for making the soup. Baked pumpkin flesh will keep in the freezer for months for another use.
                             Curried Pumpkin-Leek Soup
          Cut 2 leeks (white and some green parts) in half lengthwise, rinse out any residual soil and cut in ½ inch slices. Cook leeks in a 6-quart pot on low heat in 2 tblsp. butter until softened for 3 minutes. Add 2 large chopped cloves of garlic, 1 ½ tblsp. grated fresh ginger, cook for 1 minute then stir in:1 tsp. ground coriander, 2 tsp. ground cumin,1/4 tsp. hot pepper flakes, 1 ½ tsp. salt, 1/4 tsp. ground cardamom, 2-3 cups baked pumpkin flesh (or 3 ½ cups solid pack pumpkin), 6 cups water, 2 cups chicken broth and 1 (14 oz) can unsweetened coconut milk (not low fat). Bring to boil and simmer uncovered for 30 minutes. Allow soup to cool and purée in batches. Return soup to stove, heat and serve. Garnish with a chopped tart apple and toasted pumpkin seeds.
          Beans in various forms are a favorite New England cold weather food. A blustery afternoon in Maine and serendipitous ingredients in the kitchen were the source of this Portuguese black bean soup. If you plan ahead and soak the beans overnight, you can omit the first 2-minute cooking step for the beans.
                             Portuguese Black Bean Soup
          Rinse ¾ lb. dried black beans. In a 2 quart pot cover with cold water to 2 inches above the beans, bring to boil for 2 minutes, then remove from heat and allow to sit for 1 hour. While beans are soaking chop: 1 stalk celery, 1 large onion, 1 carrot and 4 cloves of garlic. In a small piece of cheese cloth bag tie together: 1 bay leaf, 6 black peppercorns, 5 cloves and 2 sprigs each fresh oregano and thyme (or use 1 tsp. dried oregano and thyme). Drain the soaked beans and place them in a 6-quart pot together with: 1 smoked ham hock, the chopped vegetables, 2 tsp. salt 5 cups water, 8 oz. tomato sauce, the bag of herbs, bring to boil and lower the heat to low and cook for 1 ½ hours, stirring occasionally and adding extra water as needed. Remove the herb packet and the ham hock. Trim lean pieces of lean meat from the hock and return to the soup pot. Stir in 8 oz. hot smoked chorizo cut in bite sized pieces and 2 tblsp. red wine vinegar. Cook for additional 20 minutes and serve garnished with large croutons and/or chopped parsley.
          All soups go well with crusty bread, but apple – cheddar muffins give the meal a special seasonal flavor.
                                      Apple – Cheddar Muffins
          Peel and chop 1 medium Granny Smith apple. In a small sauce pan sauté he apples with ½ cup chopped onion in 1 tblsp. butter with 1 tsp. sugar for 5 minutes.  In a  bowl combine: 1 ¾ cups flour, ¾ tsp. salt, 2 tblsp. baking powder, 1 tblsp. sugar, 1 ½ cups shredded sharp cheddar cheese, ¼ cup yellow cornmeal. Whisk together 2 eggs with 3 tblsp. melted butter and ¾ cups milk. Pour egg mixture in center of flour and mix well. Fold in onion and apple mix in batter and spoon in greased muffin pan, 2/3 full. Sprinkle with chopped pecans (optional) and bake for 20-25 minutes at 400 degrees.
          Po paraphrase Mr. Riley for our table: “When the heat of summer’s over and the coolin’ fall is here – ….. the air’s so appetizin’….” .                                                                          
           
(I. Winicov Harrington lives in coastal Maine and is the author of “How to Eat Healthy and Well for Less than $5.00 a Day: the Smart-Frugal Food Plan”; website: www.winicov-harrington.com)


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