SEARCHING GREEN SHOOTS

 

Searching Green Shoots

          April in Maine puts the green receptors of our eyes in overdrive, searching for those first green shoots that will signify spring. The sable fields of grass that look so serene in paintings by Andrew Wyeth have lost their charm. Those pesky snow squalls barely obliterate the ground around the dirty and shrinking piles of snow.

We have exhausted the joys of garden catalogues, only to find our seeds waiting for the final thaw. And then we spy that first tuft of green in the lee of the house and we momentarily loose our dislike of lawn dandelions spotting that first yellow bloom in a sunny spot. The gardener in us is tempted to reach for the spade despite the frozen ground.

Pots on a warm patio provide an excellent solution to this untimely seasonal itch. For many years now, I have been planting some lettuce and arugula around the edges of patio pots, destined later in season for eggplant or tomatoes, around mid-April. These emerging seedlings never fail to cheer and will provide our first spring salad greens by mid-May. By late May, most of these will be gone allowing the other plants to take their place.

Our seasonal kitchen follows the subtle shift of our unconscious mind, drawn to brighter colors and lighter textures. Our eye is drawn to the bright colors of bunches of radishes, scallions and spinach. Instead of crackers and cheese, the appetizer tray features thick cut large radish slices with a chunk of blue cheese and yoghurt/chive/dill dip for carrot sticks and cold asparagus spears.

Amazingly, that plucky and much maligned dandelion is actually an edible wild green, though recently it has started to appear in markets as well. It has a slightly bitter flavor, is rich in calcium and vitamin C and pairs well with spinach in salads. Cooking softens the bitterness.

In its natural habitat it awaits only a keen eye and sharp knife of the forager, to become a salad or a side dish of greens. For the most tender and best taste, cut the plant at ground level keeping the leaves together at the stem. Best foraging for the most mild and tender of these greens is before appearance of the first flower, as the slightly bitter flavor intensifies after bloom.

                   Dandelions with bacon

Trim white stalks of 1 lb dandelion greens, remove the white stems, wash thoroughly and cut in 3-4 inch lengths. If dandelions are store bought, cook in salted boiling water for 10 minutes and drain thoroughly. Freshly picked dandelions can be used directly or boiled for only 4 minutes.  In a large pan fry 2 slices thick bacon to crisp and drain on paper towels. Drain off the bacon fat and sauté ½ medium onion in 1 tblsp. olive oil for 5 minutes, stir in 2 chopped garlic cloves, ½ tsp salt and ¼ tsp red pepper flakes. Continue to sauté for 1 minute and stir in the dandelion leaves. Continue to cook for 3-4 minutes stirring, until all the liquid is absorbed. Remove from heat and toss with 2 tblsp fresh lemon juice and the crumbled bacon. Serve warm or cold. If using freshly picked uncooked dandelion greens, a variation of the salad can be made with half the greens and addition of equal amount of torn spinach leaves the last 30 seconds of cooking in oil.

A light and easy spring supper or weekend lunch can be achieved by pairing the seasonal asparagus with corn fritters and Maine smoked fish, such as salmon or trout cut in serving pieces and served with sour cream and capers.

                    Pan Seared Asparagus

Trim 1 lb. medium or large stalk asparagus by snapping off tough ends, wash in cold water and blot dry. In a large sauce pan swirl 1 Tblsp. olive oil with 1 tblsp butter until hot but not smoking. Layer the trimmed asparagus in a single layer in the oil, sprinkle with 1 tsp. salt and some fresh thyme sprigs. Cook turning occasionally on medium heat for 6-8 minutes and remove from pan. Drizzle with oriental dipping sauce: 2 tblsp light soy sauce mixed with 1 tblsp lemon juice and 1 tblsp rice vinegar.

                             Spring Corn Fritters

In a bowl beat together 2 eggs, 1/3 cup milk, 2 tblsp melted butter, 1 tsp salt and ¼ tsp pepper. Stir in 1 cup flour sifted together with 1 tsp baking powder. When smooth, stir in 1 ½ cups frozen corn kernels and chopped greens from 2 scallions. Drop tablespons of batter in a non-stick pan in 2 tsp of olive oil, flatten as pancakes and fry  both sides on medium heat to golden brown. Serve with a dollop of sour cream.

          Our appreciation of finding those green shoots each year gives us a personal affirmation of spring in nature and the joy of a seasonal table.

(I. Winicov Harrington lives in coastal Maine and is the author of “How to Eat Healthy and Well for Less than $5.00 a Day: the Smart-Frugal Food Plan”; website: www.winicov-harrington.com)