Searching Green Shoots
April in Maine puts the green
receptors of our eyes in overdrive, searching for those first green shoots that
will signify spring. The sable fields of grass that look so serene in paintings
by Andrew Wyeth have lost their charm. Those pesky snow squalls barely
obliterate the ground around the dirty and shrinking piles of snow.
We have exhausted the joys of garden catalogues,
only to find our seeds waiting for the final thaw. And then we spy that first
tuft of green in the lee of the house and we momentarily loose our dislike of
lawn dandelions spotting that first yellow bloom in a sunny spot. The gardener
in us is tempted to reach for the spade despite the frozen ground.
Pots on a warm patio provide an excellent solution
to this untimely seasonal itch. For many years now, I have been planting some
lettuce and arugula around the edges of patio pots, destined later in season
for eggplant or tomatoes, around mid-April. These emerging seedlings never fail
to cheer and will provide our first spring salad greens by mid-May. By late
May, most of these will be gone allowing the other plants to take their place.
Our seasonal kitchen follows the subtle shift of our
unconscious mind, drawn to brighter colors and lighter textures. Our eye is
drawn to the bright colors of bunches of radishes, scallions and spinach.
Instead of crackers and cheese, the appetizer tray features thick cut large
radish slices with a chunk of blue cheese and yoghurt/chive/dill dip for carrot
sticks and cold asparagus spears.
Amazingly, that plucky and much maligned dandelion
is actually an edible wild green, though recently it has started to appear in
markets as well. It has a slightly bitter flavor, is rich in calcium and
vitamin C and pairs well with spinach in salads. Cooking softens the
bitterness.
In its natural habitat it awaits only a keen eye and
sharp knife of the forager, to become a salad or a side dish of greens. For the
most tender and best taste, cut the plant at ground level keeping the leaves
together at the stem. Best foraging for the most mild and tender of these
greens is before appearance of the first flower, as the slightly bitter flavor
intensifies after bloom.
Dandelions
with bacon
Trim white stalks of 1 lb dandelion greens, remove
the white stems, wash thoroughly and cut in 3-4 inch lengths. If dandelions are
store bought, cook in salted boiling water for 10 minutes and drain thoroughly.
Freshly picked dandelions can be used directly or boiled for only 4 minutes. In a large pan fry 2 slices thick bacon to
crisp and drain on paper towels. Drain off the bacon fat and sauté ½ medium
onion in 1 tblsp. olive oil for 5 minutes, stir in 2 chopped garlic cloves, ½
tsp salt and ¼ tsp red pepper flakes. Continue to sauté for 1 minute and stir
in the dandelion leaves. Continue to cook for 3-4 minutes stirring, until all
the liquid is absorbed. Remove from heat and toss with 2 tblsp fresh lemon
juice and the crumbled bacon. Serve warm or cold. If using freshly picked uncooked
dandelion greens, a variation of the salad can be made with half the greens and
addition of equal amount of torn spinach leaves the last 30 seconds of cooking
in oil.
A light and easy spring supper or weekend lunch can
be achieved by pairing the seasonal asparagus with corn fritters and Maine
smoked fish, such as salmon or trout cut in serving pieces and served with sour
cream and capers.
Pan Seared Asparagus
Trim 1 lb. medium or large stalk asparagus by
snapping off tough ends, wash in cold water and blot dry. In a large sauce pan
swirl 1 Tblsp. olive oil with 1 tblsp butter until hot but not smoking. Layer
the trimmed asparagus in a single layer in the oil, sprinkle with 1 tsp. salt
and some fresh thyme sprigs. Cook turning occasionally on medium heat for 6-8
minutes and remove from pan. Drizzle with oriental dipping sauce: 2 tblsp light
soy sauce mixed with 1 tblsp lemon juice and 1 tblsp rice vinegar.
Spring
Corn Fritters
In a bowl beat together 2 eggs, 1/3 cup milk, 2
tblsp melted butter, 1 tsp salt and ¼ tsp pepper. Stir in 1 cup flour sifted
together with 1 tsp baking powder. When smooth, stir in 1 ½ cups frozen corn
kernels and chopped greens from 2 scallions. Drop tablespons of batter in a
non-stick pan in 2 tsp of olive oil, flatten as pancakes and fry both sides on medium heat to golden brown.
Serve with a dollop of sour cream.
Our appreciation of finding those green shoots each year gives us a
personal affirmation of spring in nature and the joy of a seasonal table.
(I. Winicov
Harrington lives in coastal Maine and is the author of “How to Eat Healthy and
Well for Less than $5.00 a Day: the Smart-Frugal Food Plan”; website:
www.winicov-harrington.com)
