From Rice to Risotto
Rice and beans have sustained early civilizations since rice was cultivated in
Mesopotamia. Today rice and beans still are a staple diet of much of the world,
though rice appears on our American tables less frequently. We are most likely
to encounter steamed rice as a side dish or as substrate for a stir fry or
ragù.
Food etymology is fascinating and tells us much about the dispersal of rice,
the third largest agricultural food commodity today, in the world. Rice came in
13th century from the French ‘ris’, which in turn arrived
from Italian ‘riso’, Latin ‘oriza’, and Greek ‘oruza’, as
the Greeks were the original importers of rice to Europe. Cultivated rice is
basically divided between the Asian (indica) and African rice. African
rice was originally brought to America with the slave trade, but now is
replaced here and worldwide with the indica varieties. Cultivated rice
varieties are white, brown and red. American native wild rice is Zizania
palustris, very different from the cultivated Oryza sp.
Long grain rice seems to be most popular, since it’s high amylose content
allows it to remain intact with good texture when cooked. Medium grain rice is
more sticky and is favored in sushi, risotto and sweet dishes. Short grain rice
makes a creamy delicious rice pudding. Nutritionally rice is comparable to corn
and wheat and has five times the nutrient value per ounce as potatoes. However,
rice does not contain Vitamin A, the lack of which can lead to blindness from
diets solely dependent on rice.
There are likely hundreds of rice dishes from various countries: pilafs, Cajun
and Creole rice dishes, fried rice as well a Paella from Spain are some of
those that have become more popular in recent years. One of my earliest forays
in rice cooking came in my graduate student days, when time and money were
definitely in short supply. Spanish rice was one of my quick one dish meals.
Cooked rice from a previous meal allows for easy preparation of this dish for
two.
Spanish Rice
Quickly brown ½ lb. lean ground beef in a large skillet, pour off excess
fat and set aside. In the same skillet sauté: 1 chopped medium onion and 1
chopped stalk of celery for 5 minutes. Stir in 1-2 tsp. chili powder and 6 oz.
tomato sauce. Add back the ground beef and 2 cups of cooked long grain rice.
Correct seasoning with salt and pepper and cook on low heat with stirring 5-10
min. until all the liquid is absorbed. Serve with a crisp salad. Note:
in later years the recipe has improved by addition with the meat of a drained 4
oz can of mushrooms and ¼ cup sliced black olives.
In Italy one can find risotto in almost every trattoria. It has been
traditionally favored in the North including Veneto, proximal to the rice
fields. Typically one thinks of Risotto alla Milanese. the delicately
creamy risotto flavored with wine, saffron threads and fresh
Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese. While I have never encountered the official version
which also includes marrow from fresh veal bones, wild mushrooms can be a
flavorful addition.
Risotto can be a one dish meal. It is made with Arborio of Carnaroli medium
grain rice, which cooked correctly will give a creamy taste with a slightly
firm center of the grain. The only draw-back is the constant attention it
requires while cooking. I recently adapted and simplified the recipe below from
“The Italian Country Table” by Lynne Rossetto Kasper.
Hearty Mediterranean Risotto
Assemble and chop all the ingredients
before proceeding at the stove. Set 5 cups of chicken or vegetable broth to
simmer and keep warm Chop: 1 medium onion, ½ medium carrot, 1 stalk
celery, leaves from 3 stalks of celery or Italian parsley, 5 large mushrooms, 2
thick slices of bacon in large lardon size. Set aside: 1 ½ cups Arborio rice, ½
cup white wine, Provençal seasoning and ½ cup tomato juice. In a large pot heat
1 Tblsp olive oil and cook the bacon for 3-4 minutes while stirring, add all
the vegetables , Provençal seasonings, salt and pepper to taste and continue to
sauté for additional 5 minutes. Add the rice and continue to cook stirring for
3 minutes. Then add the wine. Set the timer for 20 minutes and continue to stir
slowly for that time. When wine is absorbed add the tomato juice. Continue to
cook on medium heat for the next 20 minutes, adding the broth in ½ cup measures,
never allowing the mix to get soupy. You may not need all the broth.
Remove from heat and stir in
1 Tblsp butter and ½ cup freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese. Ladle in
shallow soup dishes and serve hot.
Making risotto may sound tedious, but the effort is definitely worth it, with
endless possible variations. One of these days I will try to duplicate the
risotto we once had in Padua, it was a lovely rose risotto made with red wine
and porcini. Hmm…
(I. Winicov Harrington
lives in coastal Maine and is the author of “How to Eat Healthy and Well for
Less than $5.00 a Day: the Smart-Frugal Food Plan”; website:
www.winicov-harrington.com)
