Fragrant Yeast Bread
Rising.
The falling first snow of the season
is likely to send many cooks to their kitchens to catch up with their holiday
baking. The sweet smells of cookies have likely wafted through the house
already for at least a week. These are the treats for grandchildren, neighbors,
the local cookie exchange, impromptu part deserts and gifts to friends and
family. I’m often tempted to experiment with exciting new shapes and flavors,
only to curb my enthusiasm by recalling that no matter what – our modern
grandchildren still vote “old fashioned” for my mother’s butter cookies and my
chocolate chip cookies.
The other holiday baking tends to be
more time consuming, since it involves yeast dough and one normally has to
reserve at least 4 hours for each project.
There are many ethnic recipes that have evolved in different cultures
but now are adapted and enjoyed regardless of origin. Challah, the braided
Jewish egg bread for Hanukkah has a barely detectable sweetness, but many of
the European Christmas breads can be made with sweet roll dough and have a
lightly sweet flavor. Candied fruits and nuts are found in many such recipes as
the German Stollen. Pannetone, the flamboyant Italian version of fruitcake,
comes originally from Milan, but now graces many gourmet shop shelves in this
country. Greeks, trying to insure luck for the next year, even wrap coins and
hide it in their Vasilopitta bread for Christmas.
My sister in law Joyce, has for many
years enthusiastically baked a large assortment of ethnic breads as holiday
gifts for her friends. For those of us of less patience or time, here are a
couple of holiday yeast breads, both of which can be made with sweet roll
dough.
Sweet Roll Dough
Stir 1 tsp. sugar in ¼ cup lukewarm
water and stir in 2 packets dry yeast, allow 10 min. to soften and become
foamy. Scald ¾ cups milk, stir in ½ cup sugar and 1 tsp. salt to dissolve. When
liquid is lukewarm, place in a 4 qt. bowl, stir in yeast and 2 beaten eggs.
Beat in 2 ½ cups flour and beat with an electric mixer for 2 minutes. Stir in ½
cup melted butter, 2 tblsp. sour cream, 1 tsp. fresh grated lemon rind and ½ -1
tsp. ground cardamom to taste. (Note:
add raisins, citron, candied cherries and pecans at this point for Jule Kake)
Then stir in 2 cups additional flour until well mixed. Cover and let stand for
10 min, for the flour to swell. Turn out on a board sprinkled with ½ cup flour
and kneed dough with flour for about 5 min. Place dough in a greased bowl, turn
once, cover with a damp towel and place in a warm spot to rise 1- 1 ½ hr. Punch
down and allow to rise for another 30 minutes. Turn out on a floured board or
pastry cloth, cover and let the dough rest for 10 minutes, before you proceed
with either of the two recipes below. If baking just rolls, shape in rolls of
desired size and bake at 400 degrees for 10-12 minutes.
Jule Kake
(Norwegian Christmas bread)
Prepare sweet roll dough as above with added: ½ cup raisins, 2 tblsp.
Fine cut citron and candied cherries each and ½ cup chopped pecans. After the
second rising, turn out on floured board, cut dough in half and round each
half. Let the dough rest for 10 minutes covered, then flatten each half of
dough to fit into a greased 9 inch cake pan. Cover, let rise until doubled (~1
hr.), then bake at 350 degrees for 40 min. Remove from oven at once and brush
with glaze: ¼ cup white corn syrup and 2 tblsp. Water boiled for 2 min. Remove
from pan to cake rack to cool.
Poppy Seed Bread
My mother used to make her own filling from poppy seeds, honey and
butter. These days poppy seed filling can be found in 11 oz. cans. To prepare
the 2 loaves, turn out the sweet roll dough from above on a floured surface
after the second rising and divide in two portions, cover and allow to rest for
10 min. Lightly rollout each half of the dough in an 8 inch rectangle. Lightly
brush each rectangle with melted butter and spread half of the filling in the
can on each piece. The filling may be heated slightly for ease of spreading.
Roll up each filled rectangle as for a jelly roll and seal the ends. Set on a
greased pan, cover and allow to rise in a warm place for about 1 hour. Brush
with beaten egg and bake at 350 degrees 35-40 minutes, until nicely browned.
Remove on a cake rack to cool. Wrapped tightly the loaves will keep fresh and
moist for several days.
The joys of holiday baking seem twice
as pleasant when wrapped in the aroma of holiday yeast breads.
(I. Winicov
Harrington lives in coastal Maine and is the author of “How to Eat Healthy and
Well for Less than $5.00 a Day: the Smart-Frugal Food Plan”; website:
www.winicov-harrington.com)
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