Valentine’s Dinner for Two
A long time ago (as told in any fairy tale) mothers used to tell their
daughters that the way to a man’s heart was through his stomach. Thus: ”You
better learn to cook, girl, or no one will love you!” Since that was a fairy
tale long ago and these days men cook as well as women, this column is no longer
directed only to the female of the species.
Valentine’s Day comes this year on a Sunday and allows for more leisurely
approach to a romantic dinner for two at home. This being Maine and February,
the possibility of a snowstorm is another inducement for celebrating the day at
home. Having set the stage on the table with some flowers and candles, the
trick is to have a menu that does not overwhelm the cook at the last minute and
yet looks elegant at the table.
One of my favorite main dishes for such an occasion is Coquilles St. Jacques or
scallops in a delicate sauce. It is an adaptation from an old recipe by
Fernande Garvin’s “The Art of French Cooking” published in the late 1950’s,
when Bantam books were sold at 35 cents and I was first learning to cook.
Coquilles St. Jacques Parisienne
In a heavy saucepan combine ¾ lb sea scallops, ¾ cup dry white wine ¼ tsp
salt and a couple of shakes of cayenne pepper. Slowly bring to boil and simmer
gently for 5 minutes. Reserve the liquid and cut the scallops in bite size
pieces. Heat 2 Tblsp. butter in the same sauce pan and briefly sauté 1 finely
chopped shallot, stir in 1 Tblsp. flour and slowly add the reserved cooking
liquid and ½ cup milk, stirring constantly for 3 min. until the sauce
thickens. Add ½ cup coarsely chopped white mushrooms heating for 5
minutes, stir in the scallops and heat through. Stir in 2 Tblsp. grated Swiss
or Gruyère cheese and mix well. Divide scallops between two buttered shells or
individual casseroles. The dish can be made a couple of hours ahead to this
point. Sprinkle each dish with 1 Tblsp. bread crumbs and dot with 1 tsp.
butter. Broil until top is browned and serve hot with boiled fingerling
potatoes or rice.
If your love is more the carnivore type, steak with peppercorns may be more
appropriate.
Steak au
Poivre
Start with tenderloin, boneless ribeye or even NY strip steak,
depending on your pocketbook. Rub steak with salt and press into surfaces 1
Tblsp. green or pink peppercorns per piece. Black peppercorns are too strong,
so use judiciously if only those are available. In a heavy skillet melt 2
Tblsp. butter and 1 Tblsp. oil until hot but not smoking. Add steaks and cook
3-4 minutes or more on each side, depending on thickness of meat and desired
doneness. Remove to a heated platter. Pour off fat from the pan and add ½ cup
Madeira (not sweet) or Ruby Port and ½ cup beef broth, scraping the
bottom of the pan until the crust has dissolved. Reduce the sauce to ½ cup or
less and pour over the steaks on the platter. Serve with sautéed mushrooms and
fingerling potatoes.
Both of these dishes would go well with a simple salad and peas with pearl
onions. As for the ‘finale’, Valentine’s day seems to almost demand chocolate.
Here is a classic Chocolate mousse, which fortunately can be made ahead and
stored cold until serving. This recipe is for 4 servings,
Chocolate mousse
In a heavy small sauce pan combine 1/8 cup strong coffee with 2 large squares
of semi-sweet chocolate. Heat until melted, but do not allow to boil.
Remove from heat and stir in 3 tsp. sugar, stirring until melted. Add a
total of 4 egg yolks, one at a time stirring thoroughly each time. Turn mixture
into a serving bowl. In another bowl beat 5 egg whites until soft peaks form
and then beat in 2 tsp. sugar until stiff peaks form. Fold egg whites into
chocolate mixture thoroughly, divide in tall serving dishes and chill. Serve
with a strawberry or couple of raspberries on top.
Happy Valentine’s Day!
(I. Winicov Harrington lives in Waldoboro and is the
author of “How to Eat Healthy and Well for Less than $5.00 a Day: the
Smart-Frugal Food Plan”; website: www.winicov-harrington.com)
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