THE EDIBLE PUMPKIN

The edible pumpkin

We are once again in the midst of the annual October Pumpkin Mania, centered in Damariscotta, but like ocean ripples, it spreads throughout Maine and New England.

Friday morning’s drive though Damariscotta showed the lineup of pumpkins in every size and shape ready to be transformed into works of art. The artists though had one eye on the predicted rain. Except for the black witches kettle ready to bubble and the pumpkin array as a lobster attempting to scale a wall, small tent structures were sprouting everywhere over the evolving objects of art as well as the artists. The show must go on!

When you are looking at a pumpkin in the 200 to 500 pound range, it is difficult to remember that it is a vegetable and hence edible. After all, it would take a chain saw to cut it and the flesh might be stringy enough for basket weaving. Has anyone ever roasted seeds from a giant pumpkin for a snack?  Fortunately they will sprout (unroasted) next year for aficionados to compete growing a new crop of art objects.

However, since this is a food column, I will focus on some of the less glamorous members of the pumpkin family: These are pumpkins in the 3-6 pound range, with rich, thick and tender flesh. Although there are dozens of edible varieties, excellent cooking qualities can be found in Sugar Pie and New England Pie varieties.

Peeling and cubing a pumpkin is a bit difficult, but worth it for relish, pumpkin gratin or pumpkin strudel. For most other uses, cut the pumpkin in half, scoop out the seeds and the pulp and roast face down in a 375 or 400 degree oven for 45 minutes or longer, until easily pierced with a fork. Scoop out the flesh for use in soups or mixed bakes.

                                                Curried pumpkin soup

            In a 6 quart pot sauté 2 chopped onions in 2 Tblsp. butter for 2 minutes, stir in 2 minced cloves garlic, 1 ½ Tblsp. minced fresh ginger, 1 tsp. ground coriander, 2 tsp. ground cumin, ½ tsp. ground cardamom, 1 ½  tsp. salt, ¼ tsp. red pepper flakes. Continue to cook over low heat for 2 minutes. Stir in 2 cups chicken or vegetable broth, 4 cups water, 3 cups baked pumpkin flesh and one chopped apple. Bring to boil, stir in 1 can (14) oz unsweetened (not low-fat) coconut milk and simmer for 30 minutes with occasional stirring. When slightly cooled, purée in batches. Reheat and serve with toasted pumpkin seeds scattered on top.

            Sweet and sour pumpkin relish makes a fine accompaniment to roasted meats and even chicken. This is an old recipe from my mother.

                                                Spiced pumpkin relish

            Tie in a small spice/gauze bag: 1 cinnamon stick, 6 cloves, zest of 1 lemon, 5 allspice. Dissolve 1 cup sugar in 2 cups water and ¼ cup white vinegar in an enameled pot. Add 3 cups of bite sized cubed pumpkin and the spice bag .Bring to boil and cook over medium heat 10-15 minutes, until pumpkin is softened. Remove from heat, discard the spice bag (or the pumpkin will turn grey), and fill in glass jars. Refrigerate for a week to develop flavors, but will keep refrigerated for more than a month.

            Pumpkin strudel sounded to me like a bad joke, the first time I heard of it. But a delightful German great aunt of my friend Joan in Philadelphia convinced me otherwise by serving it to us at lunch one day.  She of course did not have a recipe, but here is my adaptation and like apple strudel, it is most tasty.

                                                Pumpkin strudel

            Since phyllo dough needs to be worked quickly, assemble all the ingredients beforehand and follow the directions for thawing and handling commercial phyllo dough. The filling is for ½ package of dough.

Peel a small pumpkin, slice ¾ inch strips and cut each strip in ¼ inch slices to give you 1 ½ cups pumpkin. Set aside ¾ cup raisins and ½ cup chopped walnuts (optional). Stir together ¾ cups sugar with 1 tsp. ground cinnamon and ¼ tsp. ground nutmeg. Set aside 2 Tblsp. fine white bread crumbs. Melt 6 Tblsp. butter.

Assemble on a damp towel: spread out 3 sheets strudel, lightly brush with butter, sprinkle with a little bread crumbs, spread out 1/3  of the pumpkin and raisins (and nuts) and sprinkle with 1/3 of the sugar/spice mix. Layer with 3 sheets of phyllo dough and repeat the process. Do this the third time and fold back a bit on the short ends of the dough. Then using the towel, wrap the whole package lengthwise in a jelly roll form. Transfer to a baking pan and brush the entire strudel with lots of butter. Bake at 375 degrees for 35 to 40 minutes.

            Yes, the edible pumpkin comes in many forms. All of them delicious!

(I. Winicov Harrington lives in Waldoboro and is the author of “How to Eat Healthy and Well for Less than $5.00 a Day: the Smart-Frugal Food Plan”; website: www.winicov-harrington.com)