The edible pumpkin
We are once again in the midst of
the annual October Pumpkin Mania, centered in Damariscotta, but like ocean ripples,
it spreads throughout Maine and New England.
Friday morning’s drive though
Damariscotta showed the lineup of pumpkins in every size and shape ready to be
transformed into works of art. The artists though had one eye on the predicted
rain. Except for the black witches kettle ready to bubble and the pumpkin array
as a lobster attempting to scale a wall, small tent structures were sprouting
everywhere over the evolving objects of art as well as the artists. The show
must go on!
When you are looking at a pumpkin
in the 200 to 500 pound range, it is difficult to remember that it is a
vegetable and hence edible. After all, it would take a chain saw to cut it and
the flesh might be stringy enough for basket weaving. Has anyone ever roasted
seeds from a giant pumpkin for a snack? Fortunately they will sprout
(unroasted) next year for aficionados to compete growing a new crop of art
objects.
However, since this is a food
column, I will focus on some of the less glamorous members of the pumpkin
family: These are pumpkins in the 3-6 pound range, with rich, thick and tender
flesh. Although there are dozens of edible varieties, excellent cooking
qualities can be found in Sugar Pie and New England Pie varieties.
Peeling and cubing a pumpkin is a
bit difficult, but worth it for relish, pumpkin gratin or pumpkin strudel. For
most other uses, cut the pumpkin in half, scoop out the seeds and the pulp and
roast face down in a 375 or 400 degree oven for 45 minutes or longer, until
easily pierced with a fork. Scoop out the flesh for use in soups or mixed
bakes.
Curried pumpkin soup
In a 6 quart pot sauté 2 chopped onions in 2 Tblsp. butter for 2 minutes, stir
in 2 minced cloves garlic, 1 ½ Tblsp. minced fresh ginger, 1 tsp. ground
coriander, 2 tsp. ground cumin, ½ tsp. ground cardamom, 1 ½ tsp. salt, ¼
tsp. red pepper flakes. Continue to cook over low heat for 2 minutes. Stir in 2
cups chicken or vegetable broth, 4 cups water, 3 cups baked pumpkin flesh and
one chopped apple. Bring to boil, stir in 1 can (14) oz unsweetened (not
low-fat) coconut milk and simmer for 30 minutes with occasional stirring. When
slightly cooled, purée in batches. Reheat and serve with toasted pumpkin seeds
scattered on top.
Sweet and sour pumpkin relish makes a fine accompaniment to roasted meats and
even chicken. This is an old recipe from my mother.
Spiced pumpkin relish
Tie in a small spice/gauze bag: 1 cinnamon stick, 6 cloves, zest of 1 lemon, 5
allspice. Dissolve 1 cup sugar in 2 cups water and ¼ cup white vinegar in an
enameled pot. Add 3 cups of bite sized cubed pumpkin and the spice bag .Bring
to boil and cook over medium heat 10-15 minutes, until pumpkin is softened.
Remove from heat, discard the spice bag (or the pumpkin will turn grey), and
fill in glass jars. Refrigerate for a week to develop flavors, but will keep
refrigerated for more than a month.
Pumpkin strudel sounded to me like a bad joke, the first time I heard of it.
But a delightful German great aunt of my friend Joan in Philadelphia convinced
me otherwise by serving it to us at lunch one day. She of course did not
have a recipe, but here is my adaptation and like apple strudel, it is most
tasty.
Pumpkin strudel
Since phyllo dough needs to be worked quickly, assemble all the ingredients
beforehand and follow the directions for thawing and handling commercial phyllo
dough. The filling is for ½ package of dough.
Peel a small pumpkin, slice ¾ inch strips and cut each strip
in ¼ inch slices to give you 1 ½ cups pumpkin. Set aside ¾ cup raisins and ½
cup chopped walnuts (optional). Stir together ¾ cups sugar with 1 tsp. ground
cinnamon and ¼ tsp. ground nutmeg. Set aside 2 Tblsp. fine white bread crumbs.
Melt 6 Tblsp. butter.
Assemble on a damp towel: spread out 3 sheets strudel,
lightly brush with butter, sprinkle with a little bread crumbs, spread out 1/3
of the pumpkin and raisins (and nuts) and sprinkle with 1/3 of the
sugar/spice mix. Layer with 3 sheets of phyllo dough and repeat the process. Do
this the third time and fold back a bit on the short ends of the dough. Then
using the towel, wrap the whole package lengthwise in a jelly roll form.
Transfer to a baking pan and brush the entire strudel with lots of butter. Bake
at 375 degrees for 35 to 40 minutes.
Yes, the edible pumpkin comes in many forms. All of them delicious!
(I. Winicov Harrington lives in Waldoboro and is the
author of “How to Eat Healthy and Well for Less than $5.00 a Day: the
Smart-Frugal Food Plan”; website: www.winicov-harrington.com)
