IN PRAISE OF SOUP

In Praise of Soup

December spoiled us and lulled us in a feeling of complacency with the still green grass at Christmas and with the conveniently forgotten snowstorms of November. January made sure we were reminded of the fact we live in Maine and winters are to toughen us.

When morning temperatures hover below or barely above zero, it is time to pay attention to survival and warmth. Even the blue jays and doves hunker down close to the ground protecting themselves as they peck at the cracked corn on our deck and under the feeder in the yard. It is cold! The bright glitter of snow in pale winter sun may cheer, but does not guard against the gusts that sweep down from the Arctic.

This is the time of year for the heat of a bowl of soup to warm you with comforting or pungent smell from your nostrils to your toes.  Wrap your hands around such a bowl for lunch or dinner and somehow the icy driveway looks less menacing and even the sky on a cloudy day looks less bleak.

Chowders of all types come to mind, but one of my favorites is corn chowder, which of course can be made easily in many variations. My version is more like a thick soup with crumbled bacon on top in place of croutons.

                        Corn chowder with light cream

Crisp 4-5 slices of bacon in a 4 quart pot, set to drain on paper towels and pour off most of the fat. Return the pot to medium heat and sauté 1 large chopped onion until soft, add 2 stalks celery finely chopped, ½ red pepper diced and 2 diced carrots. Stir in 4 cups chicken broth, 2 cups water, ¼ tsp red pepper flakes and bring to boil. Add 2 medium potatoes diced and cook for 20 minutes. Stir in drained 2 cans crisp corn (or use 2 -3 cups frozen corn), bring to boil and correct seasoning with salt and pepper. Stir in 1-2 cups light cream and heat to just boiling. Serve with crumbled bacon on top of each bowl and a bit of chopped scallion greens.

Several friends and our Dutch Neck neighbors were extremely generous providing us with meals during my first weeks at home after my major back surgery. One of those was an incredible pot of corn chowder made by our neighbor Louisa, whose soups never cease to amaze me. One of these days I will try to duplicate it’s rich goodness, thick with cheddar, with finely chopped unpeeled red potatoes and just a hint of jalapeno.

White bean and ham soups are a winter staple and so is chili. However, my Cuban black bean soup is probably less common and now may have become more politically correct.

                        Cuban black bean soup

I like to start with 8 oz. dry black beans, soaked in cold water overnight and cooked for about 45 minutes to 1 hour until tender, since this gives the beans a firmer texture in the soup. But 2 cans drained and well rinsed black beans can be used instead. In a medium pot heat 2 Tblsp. olive oil and sauté 1 large onion for 5 minutes, stir in 4 chopped garlic cloves, 1 large chopped green pepper, 1 tsp. oregano, 2 tsp. ground cumin, 1 tsp. ground turmeric, ¼ tsp. red pepper and continue to sauté for a couple more minutes until fragrant. Stir in 1 diced large tomato, 3 cups beef or vegetable broth, 1 cup water, 1 6 oz can of tomato paste, 1-2 tsp. salt, pepper to taste and the drained beans. Bring to boil and simmer for 10 minutes, stir in 3 Tblsp. red wine vinegar. Serve in bowls with chopped red onion or scallions, red radishes on the side.  If desired, stir in a tablespoon of rum or dry sherry before topping with onion.

From ‘up North’ comes Swedish fruit soup for desert, which is cold and really a compote.  But in days of old, when fresh fruit was not plentiful in many parts of the world,  this was a welcome change for the palate.

                        Swedish fruit soup

In a medium pot bring to boil 3 cups water and add a spice packet in cheese cloth containing: 1 cinnamon stick, 7 whole cloves and 6 whole allspice. Add the thinly peeled strips of lemon zest or a mix of lemon and orange zest. Simmer 10 minutes, add 2 cups regular cranberry juice and 1 ½ cups raisins. Bring back to boil and simmer 5 more minutes, add 2 cups pitted prunes and 1 ½ cups dried apricots. Simmer another 7-8 minutes, remove from heat and allow to cool. Remove spice packet and strips of zest. Serve lukewarm or chilled. Note: no additional sugar is needed.

The other great thing about soups is that they can be reheated for another ready made meal. Stay warm!

(I. Winicov Harrington lives in Waldoboro and is the author of “How to Eat Healthy and Well for Less than $5.00 a Day: the Smart-Frugal Food Plan”; website: www.winicov-harrington.com)