PITY THE MALIGNED POTATO

Pity the Maligned Potato

            The passage and signing of the 2014 US Farm Bill a week ago was hailed and criticized for some equally good reasons. On Sunday January 26, before the vote, the Maine Sunday Telegram article about ongoing Congressional Potato Wars caught my eye. As a scientist, who retired to Maine some time ago and who is greatly concerned about food and nutrition, I was shocked.

Not widely known is an exclusion by USDA of fresh white potatoes from the WIC (Women, Infants and Children) nutrition program that had been part of the law in the previous 2009 Farm bill. In other words, low income women with food vouchers could not buy fresh potatoes, while the vouchers were accepted for processed French fries, chips, canned or dried potatoes. The current Potato Wars were focused on repeal of that decree and to “prevent further regulation” of potatoes in school programs.

Unfortunately the debate was conducted and publicized as ‘industry’ against ‘health and nutrition’ groups. But ‘the industry’ was really represented only by potato growers, not processors. The health and nutrition side was USDA, influenced by a panel, and not by simple comparisons of fresh versus most popular processed foods, which includes French fries.  Despite efforts by members of the Maine congressional delegation and others, the fight was lost, with only minimal changes in language of the previous law. The puzzle remains. The USDA has stated that the real aims of food assistance programs are to provide assistance to those without means to economically obtain healthy food.

As a consumer and cook, I have always been interested in both nutrition and price. I did the comparison myself last week. It was unfortunately too late for the official outcome, but the results were remarkable. Having bought a bag of fresh potatoes (4lb/$3.84) and French fries (26 oz./$2.59) at a local supermarket, I proceeded with the comparison. Using a scale and the official and stated values on packaging I made the calculations for an average serving: 1 baked potato or 1 cup of boiled potatoes compared to 19 baked French fries, which are equal in weight.

Fresh Potato                Baked Fries

Calories                       116                              246

Sodium(Salt)                   9.2 mg                      440

Potassium                    636   mg                      not determined

Vitamin C                      49%                              7%

Added ingredients          0                                  9

Cost/serving                32 cents                       53 cents

            In other words, a 4 lb bag of potatoes could make 12 single servings for a total of $3.84, while those 12 single servings of baked fries would cost $6.34. This represents a saving of $2.50. Almost twice the savings could have been made had I done the calculation the week before, when a 4 lb bag of potatoes was on sale for $2.00.  Moreover, if there were a choice on food vouchers, fresh potatoes could be used for clam and other chowders and soups, oven roasted vegetables, as well as potatoes in gratins and fritatas.  Lack of choice steers you to fries, even dried and canned forms of potatoes that have multiplicity of added ingredients with marginal if any nutritional value.

            One of the easiest ways to prepare fresh potatoes besides baking or boiling them is baking them in a sauce, which is most easily done is in a broth or with milk. If you add cheese, it can be called a gratin. The recipe readily adapts for more people and leftovers are easily reheated in a glass dish.

                        Simple scalloped potatoes

            Peel and thinly slice 4-5 medium potatoes in ¼ inch slices. Cut a medium onion in half lengthwise and slice very thinly. Apply baking spray to an 8x8 inch baking dish. Drain potatoes and place in alternate layers in the baking dish with the sliced onions, ending with potatoes on top. Heat a cup of salted chicken or vegetable broth to boiling and pour on top. Make sure the potatoes are covered. Cover tightly with aluminum foil and bake at 350 degrees for 40 minutes. Remove the foil and bake for additional 10 minutes if you wish to reduce the volume or slightly brown the top.

            For more elaborate scalloped potatoes, substitute hot milk or Half and Half for the broth, adjusting seasoning with salt, pepper and 1 tsp. ground thyme. To make a gratin, incorporate ½ cup sharp cheddar in the potato layers and sprinkle another ½ cup on top for the last 10 minutes of baking.

            Pity the maligned white potato as viewed in the Farm Bill. Is the new crop of Maine yellow fleshed potatoes the answer?

            (I. Winicov Harrington lives in Waldoboro and is the author of “How to Eat Healthy and Well for Less than $5.00 a Day: the Smart-Frugal Food Plan”; website: www.winicov-harrington.com)