THE FIRST ROSE OF AUTUMN

Unlike Edward Weston's museum masterpiece, this specimen from my garden is destined for some delicious meals this fall. Baked red cabbage with wine and apples is bound to please everyone at the table.

This delectable transformation from visual to edible art can be accomplished as follows. Cook 4 slices thick cut bacon until crisp and drain on paper towels. Pour off all but 2 tablespoons of the bacon fat in which saute over medium heat 1 chopped red onion and 4-5 cups coarsely shredded red cabbage for about 15 minutes. Season with salt and pepper and pour in 1 cup red wine. Bring the liquid to boil and continue cooking until almost all the liquid is absorbed. Transfer the cooked cabbage to a casserole and ring with apple slices that have been sauteed in 1-2 Tblsp. butter for 5 minutes. Sprinkle the center portion with roughly crumbled bacon. Serve immediately or can be re-heated for 20 minutes in a 300 degree oven. This dish makes an excellent acommpaniement to pork or roast beef.

THRIFTY GOOD FOOD: Corn - off the Cob -

Corn – off the cob

            No, this is not a column of corny jokes in response to the winter storm Mother Nature surprised us with on April first. Rather I’m feeling deprived this time of year of our summer bounty. Thoughts of easy suppers with corn on the cob come floating through my mind and I can almost taste the sweetness of each kernel. Fortunately canned or frozen corn kernels are easily available and provide a basis for tasty and economical meals.

Southern cooking has always assuaged springtime yearnings for corn with their recipes for corn pudding, which is a sweet side dish to be served with ham or even roast lamb.  Because it requires very little flour, it is easy to substitute brown rice flour in this recipe and make it a gluten free dish. Here is my versatile Northern version of this dish with less sugar and a more hearty taste for our less than balmy spring days.

                                    Hearty corn pudding

            In a small bowl stir together: ¼ cup all purpose wheat or brown rice flour, 2 Tblsp. corn meal, 1 tsp. baking powder, ½  tsp. salt, 1 Tblsp. onion powder and 1 Tblsp. dried parsley. In a large bowl beat with a mixer 4 eggs with 1 Tblsp. sugar, stir in 1 ¼ cups milk, 4 Tblsp. melted butter and the flour mix. Stir in 1 (12oz.) can creamed corn, 12 ounces drained canned or thawed frozen corn kernels, 1 cup shredded sharp cheddar cheese and 1 cup thawed lima beans. Pour mix in a greased 2-quart baking dish and sprinkle with coarsely shredded 2 oz. of Parmesan cheese. Bake in a 350-degree oven for 45 minutes.

            This also makes an excellent brunch casserole with thick strips of ham or asparagus arranged decoratively on the corn mixture, before the final sprinkle of shredded Parmesan cheese. For this use an 11x7x2 inch baking dish to have more surface area for the ham and asparagus topping. Bake as above.

            Another easy and quick meal can be made using flour tortillas folded around corn,  cheese and chipotle chiles for a lively quesadilla.

                                    Corn and cheese quesadilla

            Stir together: 1 cup thawed frozen corn, 1 ½ cups coarsely grated Monterey Jack or Swiss cheese, 2 Tblsp. mayonnaise, 2 thinly sliced scallions, 1 Tbls. chopped canned chipotle chiles or hot banana pepper slices.  Brush 4 (8 inch) flour tortillas lightly with oil.  Turn them over and spread ¼ of the corn mixture over half of each tortilla. Fold the other half over in a half moon shape. Heat ½ Tblsp. vegetable oil in a large (preferably ridged) pan over moderate heat and cook the quesadillas two at a time about 2 minutes per side. Serve cut in half with some salsa and/or chopped cherry tomatoes and sour cream. To make this dish gluten free, use small corn tortillas with the filling between two for a sandwich effect, since corn tortillas tend to break when folded over.

            For a heartier meal, fold in 1 cup chopped cooked chicken or ham in the corn mixture and proceed as above.  This and a salad will make a fine meal and you can always dream of those August days, when corn on the cob is plentiful and these dishes will taste even better when made with corn freshly cut off the cob.  

(I. Winicov Harrington lives in Waldoboro and is the author of “How to Eat Healthy and Well for Less than $5.00 a Day: the Smart-Frugal Food Plan”; website: www.winicov-harrington.com)

Published in the Lincoln County News

PRECARIOUS FREE LUNCH (published in Lincoln County News)

Hard to get here, but tastes good after a winter's nap. Photo: IWH

CELEBRATE SPRING

Celebrate Spring.

            Even though the turkeys have a hard time wading though the deep snow in our yard, the recent rains and ‘a bit” warmer weather have us yearning for spring.  After all, daylight saving’s time is here and that is certainly supposed to be sign of spring. The most reliable sign of spring in Maine of course is the beginning of the Maple Sugaring Season, which has just started.

            Maple sugar and syrup have been made in the Northeast since before the arrival of colonists and once were the primary source of sugar by Native American tribes. With the introduction of cane sugar, maple products have become more of a prized specialty item in the kitchen.  Whenever I visit friends and family out of state, they are eager for my offering of a jug of Maine maple syrup.

            While the methods of syrup production from maple sap have changed from wood fired evaporation to modern stainless steel evaporators, the Maine Maple Producers are found in every part of the state. The production areas range from the largest in Aroostook County to the smallest in Portland and Casco Bay area and contribute significantly to Maine economy. You can find more information at: www.mainemapleproducers.com.

It takes about 10 gallons of sap to produce 1 quart of syrup.  Maple syrup has the healthy attributes of being rich in calcium, potassium, iron, magnesium and manganese as well as containing B vitamins, niacin, biotin and folic acid. And, a tablespoon of maple syrup has only 50 calories, which is 20% calories less than corn syrup.

            Most of us love the taste of maple syrup on pancakes, waffles and French toast. But the distinctive maple flavor can also enhance sweet potatoes, baked beans or apples as well as feature prominently in such dishes as pork ribs and chicken wings together with other barbeque ingredients. Including a teaspoon of maple syrup in a vinaigrette for a salad featuring grapefruit or orange sections with fennel is very tasty.

            This time of year, when I think of serving an ham, one of my favorite glazes is made with maple syrup. Mix together 2 Tblsp. melted butter and 2 Tblsp. melted red currant jelly, 3 Tblsp. maple syrup, 1 Tblsp. dry mustard and 2 Tblsp. lemon juice. Spread the cooled mixture on ham at the end of the baking period, increase temperature to 400 degrees and return ham to oven until the glaze is set. For thicker glaze, baste an additional time while baking.

            Asparagus is another harbinger of spring in the kitchen. Although it is now available throughout the year, asparagus in the spring makes a special seasonal statement with any meal. Washed asparagus is easy to prepare. Remove the tough bottom portion of the stalk by simply snapping it of where it breaks naturally and boil the spear portion in salted water for 4 minutes. You can dress the asparagus stalks on the serving plate with melted butter and thin lemon slices or slivers of Parmesan cheese. Another delicious, but more caloric choice is Hollandaise sauce. While the cooked version can be tricky, here is my quick adaptation from an old Craig Clairborne recipe. Place 3 egg yolks, 2 Tblsp. lemon juice, dash of salt and a dash of Tabasco in a blender. Heat ½ cup butter without browning to bubbling on the stovetop. Start the blender and slowly add the melted butter to the egg mixture through top opening of the lid. Blend for about 10-15 seconds until smooth and thickened.

            I find an interesting taste variation in pan-roasted asparagus. Prepare asparagus as above and dry on paper towels. In a large pan melt 1 Tblsp. butter and 2 Tblsp. olive oil. Place the asparagus in a single layer in a pan and roast on medium heat for about 8 minutes, turning the spears with tongs so that they are slightly browned on sides. Remove to a serving platter and drizzle with Oriental vinaigrette: mix 2 Tblsp. light soy sauce, 1 Tblsp. lemon juice, 1 Tblsp. rice vinegar and a pinch of tarragon.  Happy Spring!

(I. Winicov Harrington lives in Waldoboro and is the author of “How to Eat Healthy and Well for Less than $5.00 a Day: the Smart-Frugal Food Plan; website: www.winicov-harrington.com)

MARCH WITH IRISH FLAVORS

St.Patrick's Day Tastes: Irish flavors.

            As the saying goes: “On St. Patrick’s day, everybody is Irish”. We get caught up in the exuberance, the music and the joyous gift of blarney. Some of the notable excesses for the day even on this side of “the pond” include green beer and in some years past, Chicago has made its river run green for the occasion.  We love the thought of people so passionate that they are willing to kiss a stone for the source of eloquence in County Cork.

            In contrast, less well known is Irish food. Except for noting the ubiquitous ads for corn beef and cabbage in early in March, most of us would be hard pressed to come up with a list of Irish specialties. My husband, of Irish descent, could only come up with oatmeal. We both like Irish oatmeal for breakfast and find that ¾ cups of Maine steel cut oats cooked with 2 ½ cups water and salt for 30 minutes makes a satisfying breakfast for two, that is nearly as flavorful as the Irish variety of oats.  A bit of research uncovered such colorfully named dishes as:” Skirlie, Soda or Potato Farls, Crubeens, Clapshot, Boxty and Dublin coddle. However more approachable are: stews and savory pies.

The traditional dishes focus  on local food for survival and include: potatoes, cabbage, oatmeal and meat in the form of bacon, sausage and lamb or mutton, often in thrifty and tasty preparations that are even timely today. More modern emphasis on local food features lamb and the bountiful seafood harvest from local waters, which include mussels, salmon and oysters. Guinness stout of course has a featured role not only on St. Paddy’s Day and in the pub, but also in dishes as diverse as lamb shanks with Guinness and Irish rarebit.

The traditional corn beef is actually quite easy to prepare. Place a rinsed 3 lb. piece of corn beef in a Dutch oven with a tight fitting lid, cover barely with water and add the spice packet that usually comes with it.  In absence of a spice packet add 2 bay leaves, 4 allspice berries, 2 tsp. black peppercorns, 2 cloves and salt. Bring to boil, cover tightly with a lid and braise in a 300 degree oven for 3 ½ hours. Remove meat from the liquid and cover to keep warm.  On top of the stove, add 8 small red potatoes cut in half and 4 cleaned carrots sliced in 2 ½ inch pieces to the braising liquid and boil until vegetable are soft for about 20 minutes. As for the cabbage, I prefer to stir fry cabbage strips about ½ inch wide in 1 Tblsp. each of olive and sesame oils, sprinkle with salt and 1 tsp. caraway seed and ¼ cup beef broth. Cover and simmer for 5 minutes and serve with the sliced corned beef and vegetables.

Another popular dish is Shepherd’s pie, which is an easy one dish meal and a good way to use up any leftover mashed potatoes. Brown 1 lb lean ground beef in a heavy pan and set aside. In the same pan sauté 1 large chopped onion until softened (about 5 minutes), stir in 2 chopped garlic cloves and 1 tsp. dried thyme for an additional minute. Stir in the contents of a 14 oz can of chopped tomatoes, a package of frozen peas and carrots, ½ package of Au jus mix and 1 cup of water. Bring to a boil and cook for 5 minutes.  Return the meat to the pan, mix thoroughly and transfer to a two-quart baking dish.  If you have 1-2 cups of leftover mashed potatoes, heat them in a microwave and beat in some hot milk with an electric mixer. Spread over the meat and vegetable mixture and brush with melted butter.  Place in a 425^o oven for 15 to 20 minutes until thoroughly heated through and the potatoes are slightly browned. If you do not have leftover mashed potatoes: peel, quarter and boil 5-6 medium potatoes with salt. Drain when quite soft, mash and whip with an electric mixer and about 1/3 cup hot milk to make fresh mashed potatoes. 

            This satisfying meal could be partnered with some stout in honor of the day, or followed by a cup of steaming Irish coffee for desert. The leprechauns will certainly whisk away any dreaded calories.

(I. Winicov Harrington lives in Waldoboro and is the author of “How to Eat Healthy and Well for Less than $5.00 a Day: the Smart-Frugal Food Plan. ”; website: www.winicov-harrington.com)

The Magic of Kitchen Herbs - Published in The Lincoln Co. News

The Magic of Kitchen Herbs

             This time of year, those of us who garden or would like to garden next year, are inexorably drawn to all the glossy garden and seed catalogues that have accumulated since January 1.  The possibility and choices of what to grow next summer and the potential wonderful and colorful vegetable and salad servings for our table are so irresistible, that it would take a small truck farm if we were to have all that is appealing.  It seems that each year we encounter new or newly discovered heirloom varieties of vegetables and the garden herb assortment seems to be growing by leaps and bounds, invoking and complementing the modern expanding kitchen repertoire.

            While perusing my collection of garden catalogs, I also found buried under the papers on my desk a booklet, which was recently forwarded to me by my sister in law and which had been on my mother in law’s shelf lo those many years ago. The booklet is simply entitled “Colonial Kitchen Herbs” and was compiled some 40 years ago by Ferne Shelton as ‘garden and kitchen secrets from early America’.

            Well, we are quite mistaken if we think that Early American kitchen fare was inevitably plain. The herbal traditions developed by monks in the Middle Ages and published in England even before Shakespeare’s time migrated to the New World and flourished in frontier gardens and kitchens. Herbs were grown and stored dried for winter to be added to meats, soups, vegetables and used for not only flavoring vinegars, but also often as folk remedies. Most of those are used today.  Herb teas were used as restoratives for everything from colds to hysteria, indigestion, constipation, rheumatism and numerous other ailments. Today’s herbal tea industry seems to have re-discovered many of the ingredients of yesteryear.

            Stews were and still are favorite winter meals that require slow cooking and have the added benefit of improved flavor for multiple meals upon reheating. A simple way to add multiple herbal flavors to such dishes is by adding a “Herb Bouquet” (herbs tied in a cheese cloth bag), which is removed at the end of the cooking period.  For beef such a “Boquet” could include: 6 peppercorns, bay leaf, 1tsp. each of  sweet marjoram, thyme and parsley leaves; or basil and summer savory with peppercorns and celery leaves. Each will give a slightly different flavor to the finished meal.  We tend to think of sage as paired with poultry, but poultry can be also seasoned with sweet marjoram, summer savory and even a light touch of rosemary for a unique flavor.

            It is interesting to contemplate the delicious variations we can introduce in our meals with just a handful of spices on our shelf. Soups benefit from combinations of parsley, thyme, marjoram, tarragon, celery, bay leaf and savory. For each dish the goal is to add flavor and not overpower the meal with any one herb.   Adding some chervil or sage to a fish batter will give it an interesting new flavor. And any broiled or lightly fried fish will take on a delightfully new characteristic with a dollop of reduced fat sour cream in which you have stirred in some dill and or chives.

            Individual vegetable dishes or salads take better to some herbs than others.  We naturally pair tomatoes with basil or oregano, but chives and thyme are equally compatible and thinly sliced fennel gives a tomato salad a whole new dimension. I will usually add dry mustard and minced onion to chicken, potato, tuna, egg and cabbage salads; however a lively and interesting addition can be ¼ or ½ tsp. celery seed.

            Some more exotic additions to my spice shelf are roasted cumin and turmeric, which pair so well in chili and other meat and bean dishes. A real taste treat is smoked paprika compatible with eggs, meat and even sautéed cabbage. Unfortunately these can not be grown in our gardens and like cinnamon, cardamom, cloves, ginger and nutmeg have to be imported from warmer climates. However, most kitchen herbs can be grown in pots and in our own Northern gardens.  Their flavor magic is welcome not only in our winter menus, but is worth planning for in next summer’s kitchen herb border.   

(I. Winicov Harrington lives in Waldoboro and is the author of “How to Eat Healthy and Well for Less than $5.00 a Day: the Smart-Frugal Food Plan”; website: www.winicov-harrington.com)

New Year's Food Resolutions - as published in The Lincoln Co. News

New Year’s Food Resolutions

            How many of us have sat down on New Years day, if not with pen and paper or iPad, then at least just a mindful of intentions of how to improve things in the New Year? It may be just the annual response to some level of guilt for all the excesses we have indulged during the closing months of the last year or a simple “morning after” response of  “I can do better” in terms of health, finances or even our regional community.

            In regards to all three of these aims, food plays a significant role. Health: I will aim to eat a more healthful diet and maybe even shed a few of those newly accumulated pounds.  Finances: I will plan for at least some economical meals to be prepared at home by shopping with a plan that includes seasonal foods and hence saves money and minimizes waste.  Regional community: I will aim to use more seasonal foods, especially those that are produced locally.

            As I compile my personal list of resolutions, I prefer to call them - aims. Too rigid an interpretation of them would deprive us of the varieties of citrus that brighten our tables in the winter even up here in Maine.  And while citrus are not local, they are at their seasonal best in winter. Broiled grapefruit with just a sprinkle of sugar and nutmeg is one of the treats of my morning breakfast as I watch blue jays and doves squabbling over the corn on our snowy deck.

            For a healthy low calorie lunch, it is hard to beat my tomato-cabbage soup, which I have previously described in my book.  This is quick and easy as well as low in calories and is equally tasty made either with only cabbage or rice.

                                    Tomato Cabbage Soup

            Bring to boil 2 cups chicken or vegetable broth, add 1-2 cups coarsely shredded cabbage and continue to cook for 15 minutes. Add 2 cups tomato (or V8) juice and 1 cup cooked rice (optional). Heat to boiling and serve.  If you like things spicy, a dash of Tabasco sauce will certainly liven up this flavorful soup.

            For local flavor, it is Maine shrimp season again and it is a delight to have these fresh and delectable small shrimp for a variety of dishes in the kitchen.  Recently we enjoyed a new version of a quesadilla recipe for supper. It combines two of our local products, Maine shrimp and potatoes in a surprisingly filling combination.

                                    Maine Shrimp and Potato Quesadillas

            Thinly slice a large peeled potato, cover with cold water plus 1 tsp. salt and bring to boil. Boil for 5 minutes, drain potatoes thoroughly and roughly mash with 2 Tblsp. milk or broth. Leftover boiled potatoes can be substituted in this step. In a large bowl thoroughly mix: the prepared potatoes, ¼ cup Parmesan cheese, 1 cup shredded Jack cheese, 8 ounces Maine shrimp meats, rinsed and patted dry, 2 finely chopped green scallions, 1 Tblsp. finely chopped jalapeno pepper (optional), ½ tsp. salt and 2-3 Tblsp. light mayonnaise or sour cream. Divide the mixture among four 8 inch flour tortillas. Set the mixture in a long strip along the center of the tortilla, fold over the tortilla and lightly flatten it closed. Brush both sides of the folded tortilla with vegetable oil and fry in a medium hot non-stick pan 2-3 minutes on a side.  Turn off the heat, cover and let stand for another 2 minutes until the shrimp are cooked through. Alternatively bake at 400 degrees for 6 minutes followed by a short period under the broiler to lightly brown the tortilla. Serve hot with dilled light sour cream and salsa if desired.

            Having written my New Years resolutions/aims the old fashioned way with paper and pencil, I’m probably admitting to their impermanence. But since there are many tasty economical ways to keep them, it is worth the try!

(I. Winicov Harrington lives in Waldoboro and is the author of “How to Eat Healthy and Well for Less than $5.00 a Day: the Smart-Frugal Food Plan”; website: www.winicov-harrington.com)