March one came in like the proverbial
lamb followed by a whole pride of lions bearing snow. Who knows what such a
weather pattern portends in the terms of the old saying for the rest of the
month? As we emerge from the winter doldrums it is pleasant to think of a
Southern mini-vacation for sunshine and some livelier flavors in food.
In my mind New Orleans has always been
one of the most romantic of cities. It can appear a bit wild the week before
Lent, culminating in Mardi Gras, but even the limelight of some of the garish
parades can not obscure the ‘lady’s’ distinctive charm and underlying vitality.
This vitality was blended in the Vieux
Carré from French, Spanish, African, Irish, Italian and other diverse
origins for a couple of centuries and resulted in a culture and food simply
termed as ‘Creole’.
In food this blend depends heavily on
a mix of distinctive spices termed Cajun and Creole seasonings. Cajun is the
simpler seasoning consisting of: salt, pepper, paprika, garlic, onion and
cayenne. Creole seasoning is similar with the addition of oregano and thyme.
Both depend on cayenne for heat and the intensity of the flavors will depend on
the cook’s personal mix, though prepared mixes are commonly available at
groceries.
Creole Black
Bean Soup
Rinse and soak 2 cups black beans
overnight in cold water. Rinse and bring to boil in a pot covered with at least
2 inches of water. Cook for 2 minutes and set aside to cool for 1 hour. In a 4
quart pot, sauté 2 medium chopped onions in 2 tblsp. butter for 5 minutes, add
4 chopped cloves of garlic and sauté for an additional minute. Add: 1 smoked
pork hock, 3 cups beef or chicken broth, 2 cups water, the drained beans, 1 chopped
celery stalk, 1 large chopped carrot, 1 14 oz can diced tomatoes, 1 tblsp.
Creole seasoning, 1 bay leaf, 6 whole cloves, 1 tsp. salt and bring to boil.
Skim off any foam. Reduce heat to medium low and cook for 2 hours, stirring
occasionally and keep all submerged in liquid by addition of water as needed.
When slightly cooled, remove pork hock and bay leaf. Cut off any lean meat from
the pork hock and add back to soup. To serve, reheat with 2 tblsp. balsamic
vinegar, 1 tsp. sugar and 1 lb linguica or andouille sausage cut in bite sized
pieces. Serve with crusty bread and garnish of chopped parsley.
In most visits to New Orleans it is
difficult to escape Gumbo on a restaurant menu. This is a thick and rich
chicken or seafood soup with andouille sausage and is based on a flour and oil
roux cooked for 20-40 minutes to produce the rich golden color of the soup.
Unfortunately, this soup also contains okra, a vegetable intriguing in pickled
form, but definitely an acquired taste in soup.
A more accessible Creole specialty is
the Crayfish Étoufée. Crayfish in Louisiana may be common enough in your corner
grocery, but are a bit more difficult to find in Maine. Fortunately small
shrimp make an excellent substitute in this dish that can be served for either
lunch or dinner. This is an adapted and modified recipe from the famous
Brennan’s New Orleans Cookbook.
Shrimp Étoufée
In a large sauce pan melt ½ cup butter and
sauté 1 cup finely chopped onion, 1 cup chopped shallots, ½ cup finely chopped
celery for 7 minutes, stir in 2 chopped garlic cloves and cook for another
minute. Stir in 2 tblsp. flour, 1 cup drained diced tomatoes, 1 cup clam juice
and 1 cup water until smooth and thick. Add 1 tblsp. Worcestershire sauce, ¼
tsp. black pepper, 2 dashes of cayenne, ¼ tsp. paprika. Cook over low heat with
stirring for 15 minutes, stir in ¾ lb. cleaned small shrimp. Heat through until
shrimp are cooked through and serve over rice or cooked grits.
Roast Creole
Cauliflower
This recipe evolved inevitably, since roast cauliflower is a favorite at
our house.
Preheat
oven to 375 degrees and set to roast. In a small bowl mix 3 tblsp. olive oil, 1
tsp. Creole seasoning and 2 tblsp. balsamic vinegar. Cut cauliflower in 1 ½
inch floret pieces, toss 3 cups of the pieces with the oil mixture and spread
on a foil lined cookie sheet. Sprinkle with coarse salt. Roast for 15 minutes,
then turn the cauliflower with a spatula and roast for an additional 10
minutes. Serve warm with roast chicken or other meat.
Not all Creole cooking has to be
spicy. One can always dream of Bananas Foster after a decadent Brennan’s brunch
for our mini-vacation of the mind.
(I. Winicov
Harrington lives in coastal Maine and is the author of “How to Eat Healthy and
Well for Less than $5.00 a Day: the Smart-Frugal Food Plan”; website:
www.winicov-harrington.com)
